NY Trade Show Roundup Fall/Winter 2015-16

The close of July is considered one of the busiest times of the year as the industry gets color, fabric, and print frenzied over all the trade shows happening across town. So if you didn't get to make it to Premiére Vision, Indigo, or Texworld, we've got all the latest must-know innovations so you can keep up to date with what's happening in the market.

photo via Lamar

Held at a new, spacious location at Pier 92, Premiére Vision was our first stop and a bit off the beaten path, but totally worth the trek. While the Trend Forum was smaller than previous years, the layout of the show was much more organic and created a flow from accessories to the Forum, to vendors, and finally Indigo. The Trend Forum confirmed our key color predictions for F/W 2015-16 with blues, oranges, and darker tones prevailing across the spectrum. Here, we came across Lamar, who exclusively produces the technical fabrics "Nilit Heat," lining that captures body heat and insulates as well as "Nilit Breeze," which is used for windbreakers.

photo via Camilla Frances Prints

While Indigo mimicked many of the same themes we saw at PV, a fresh set of textile companies graced the roster. The first, Camilla Frances Prints is based in London and newbies to the Indigo scene, but definitely offered an unforgettable selection of designs from blurred florals to ethnic tapestry prints to galactic, landscapes, and graphics. With most of their collection placed on darker grounds and in more complex placements, botanicals, floral and geometric combos, and black and white prints were in the most demand.

photo via Natural Cotton Color

Located at a booth featuring independent designers, we were introduced to Silvia Maria, a Brazilian design studio that showcased at Indigo for the first time as well. Through an intense mix of colors inspired by Brazilian life, the collection included a plethora of lively prints, mixed patterns of animal and florals, and overlapping designs. One of her prints was even chosen to be included in Indigo's website gallery of wallpapers and is available for download here.

We've already updated you about our discussion at TexworldUSA so now it's time to tell you about the most relevant trends exhibited at their Trend Forum. Overall, there was an abundance of texture, shimmer, sparkle, cutouts, and of course embossing. Shimmery yarns created a tapestry-like sensation in conjunction with iridescent details, sequins, and glittery bouclé. Navy took center stage on its own as well as in various combinations with nudes and yellows. However, the main focus resided in performance fabrics like scuba materials.

photo via Hyperbola

It seems like everyone is after fabrics that offer the newest technology, which is why we have to highlight the forward thinking company, Hyperbola. With a focus on outerwear, Hyperbola combines fashion and function that can fit into everyone's lifestyle. While they currently work with major retailers like Puma and Zara, they feel the merging of fashion and function hasn't necessarily trickled across from athletic wear. The Taiwan based company has already won awards for their 100% performance wool ski jacket which is almost identical to a classy tuxedo jacket. This jacket is not only stylish and lightweight, but waterproof, breathable, highly durable, water repellent, windproof, and super warm.

So what's our forecast for F/W 2015-16? Color palettes will shift towards a blue story ranging from icy to dusty to midnight hues with hints of teal. On the fabric front, it's all about performance features and technology so expect scuba-like materials to stick around. 3D effects were prevalent as in embossed textures, pleating and lace. Double faced fabrics as in sportswear inspired synthetic performance fabrics combined with traditional wool.Shimmer and sparkly embellishments are also keen to pop up, but mostly in yarn form for both knits and wovens. Digital prints, geometrics, and diffused floral patterns with dark backgrounds will be everywhere, proving spring themes can easily translate into fall fashion. Overall, we are looking at a growing relationship between fashion and function and a way to not only merge the two, but create clothing that can handle practically anything. 

Capsule NY SS15 Recap

The two-day long men’s show, Capsule, concluded last week after a showing of over 700 designers, including a mix of new independents and big names in the business. The event took place on the southern tip of Manhattan, in Basketball City. This great, open arena produced a laid back atmosphere, and mimicked the feel of the menswear products presented in the show. Capsule was all about casual convenience, even offering shuttles from Lafayette and back, discounted Uber rides, and access to an outdoor terrace with stunning views of the Brooklyn Bridge.

photo via Capsule

Since the show began in 2007, it has grown from only 45 designers, to well over 700 as of this year. Even with so many designers at the SS15 show, there seemed to be an overriding theme – an understated sophistication that left us with the feeling that our lives are serious enough, and fashion doesn’t need to be. This West Coast, vintage inspired vibe embraced Hawaiin prints, short-sleeved button downs, and even the bucket hat! As an overall, we saw soft tailored pieces with a sportswear attitude – predominant colors of earthy tones ranging from moss green, dark greys, caramel and navy, with pops of color like yellow, orange and teal. If you haven’t already, invest in navy pieces for Spring/Summer 2015, because it is going to be huge!

Capsule was able to show a little bit of everything in men’s fashion. Overall, we saw brands not just selling clothing, but a lifestyle.

Iron & Resin, a California brand, based its designs around the surf lifestyle, while brands like Timberland focused on performance wear for men, showing breathable button downs in natural colors, Cordura shorts, and Hyvent Jackets – technology designed by their sister brand The North Face.

Japanese Company, A. Four from designer Kazuki Kuraishi, focused on minimalism, representative of the culture and enlisted the help of graphic designer, Lucas Price for a line of graphic tees previewed here.

Goodlinens, a new bath and kitchen towel brand, set to launch later this year displayed towels made from natural fibers out of flax pants and naturally colored.

Herschel Supply Co. showed off their line of wearable storage in coordinating colors, introducing a new salmon pink to the collection.

Men’s lifestyle and fashion mags like Cereal and Man of the World featured men’s street style and photography from around the world.

photo via Arpenteur

One design team that embodied the vibe of the show was Arpenteur, who were first timers to Capsule NYC. Arpenteur was created 3 years ago by two Frenchmen who took on making wearable and sustainable clothing – everything from raincoats made from the same material as sails, to a collection of knits from the same heather grey yarn. There is ease to the collection that clearly reflects the personalities of the creators and cartoons they watched as kids inspire the simple colors and lines.

photo via Men in Cities

And then there was Men in Cities a lifestyle and accessories brand based out of New York City, with an innovative take on selling to men. Men in Cities does all the work for you! They have created boxes inspired by different cities across the world that are filled with products that embody that location. For example, Men in New York would get gloves while the man in Paris may get a paisley print pocket square.

photo via Meg Company

Meg Company had one of the most exciting displays at Capsule, with everything from hats to men’s apparel and shoes…tons of shoes! Meg Company is ahead of the game when it comes to footwear for men with their camo print loafers, open toe lace-up sandals, and leopard print sneakers – all trends that we are only starting to see in men’s street style. Meg Companies practices in sustainability and quickly won us over. They make jackets from old US Army tents and use natural dying methods in the process.

Overall, Capsule was an amazing show filled with innovation and refinement – a move from serious to easy going is in store for Spring/Summer 2015 and we can't wait!

MBF At TexworldUSA Roundup

You may remember us mentioning that our Creative Director, Manuela Fassbender, was invited to participate in Lenzing's Innovation Seminar Series at TexworldUSA last week. Manuela hosted and moderated a discussion entitled “The Future is now: New Games and New Rules," with a panel that included top leaders in the industry: Maxine Bédat, Co-founder of Zady, Liz Bacelar, Founder and CEO of Decoded Fashion, and Julia Straus VP of Partnerships and Business Development at BaubleBar. Held at the Javits Center along Manhattan’s Hudson River, the discussion addressed the major drivers in today's apparel industry and how to gain market share. We had an outstanding attendance and very thought-provoking conversations, so here are some highlights:

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Maxine Bédat, Co-founder of Zady and expert in conscious consumerism, explained how consumers want to know more about their clothing. According to Maxine, conscious consumerism started in the food business and trickled down into fashion. She described today's consumers as the “Wholefoods Generation” with an awakened curiosity towards what our food and clothing is made of. Consumers are obsessed with plus factors – Made in the USA, 100% organic cotton, and so on, and businesses should take advantage of that. When it comes to fashion, we need to help consumers define what sustainability is.

Liz Bacelar, founder and CEO of Decoded Fashion connected and educated us on the merging of two very different players, fashion and technology. She examined how fashion is slow moving when it comes to technology, because there are little investors in pricey fashion/tech collaborations such as 3-D printing for personalized bracelets. She states that there is a major demand for fashion designers to team up with tech firms to beautify wearable technology in the luxury market. Liz gave us an example of Google maps working with a couture jacket where the wearer places their phone in their pocket, and the jacket vibrates based on the direction that Google wants you to go. Needless to say, the entire audience wants that jacket!

Julia Straus, VP of Partnerships and Business Development at BaubleBar focused on the play between Fortune 500 and startups. Julia told us how Nordstrom recognized BaubleBar after their 50-day pop-up shop in NYC drew in major crowds and now they are available on the upscale department chain's website as well as in 35 Nordstrom locations. Deemed guest bartenders, the fashion jewelry mecca now collaborates with influencers, personalities, and editors who lend an eye in designing an upcoming collection. The latest collaboration is BaubleBar x Frends, a full product line of Bauble Bling headphones that come with a complimentary pair of earrings. Wearable technology is one of the hottest markets right now and a partnership between Fortune 500 companies and startups can do wonders for both parties by combining the fresh and innovative with that of the more established and experienced.
 

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

While gaining market share is more challenging than ever, being able to analyze what drives the market from conscious consumerism, to fashion/tech partnerships, to alliances with startups and Fortune 500 companies will help to seal a spot in the industry.

To learn more about these influential women, read our Seminar Announcement here. And to check out our full MBF Portfolio, please click here.

MBF at Texworld USA

A few weeks ago, we announced that we are hosting a panel discussion at the upcoming Texworld USA, The Future Is Now: New Games And New Rules. Joined by experts Maxine Bédat Co-founder of Zady, Liz Bacelar Founder CEO of Decoded Fashion, and Julia Straus VP, Partnerships and Business Development at BaubleBar, we will cover the topics of conscious consumerism, fashion and technology, and the evolution of Fortune 500 companies and start-ups.

photo via Texworld USA

So please check out the full seminar schedule here and be sure to join us on July 24th at 12:30pm. To stay in the-know look for  #MBFxTexworldUSA and make sure to follow our guest speakers:

@JuliaEStraus

@maxinebedat

@DecodedLiz

MBF Announcements

Recently our Creative Director, Manuela Fassbender was asked to guest write an article for 4fashionadvice.com on eco-fashion. She chose to focus on conscious consumerism by examining how our changing lifestyles and the growing demand for transparency and social responsibility coincide. To learn more about which companies are leading the sustainability movement and to read the full article, click here.

photo via Texworld

In other news, we are happy to officially announce that MBF will be hosting a panel discussion at the upcoming Texworld USA. Entitled The Future Is Now: New Games And New Rules, we will be evaluating how new drivers are impacting the fashion industry and gaining market share is more challenging than ever. Guest speakers include Maxine Bédat Co-founder of Zady, Liz Bacelar Founder CEO of Decoded Fashion, and Julia Straus VP, Partnerships and Business Development  at BaubleBar.

photo via zady.com

We first introduced you to Maxine when we interviewed her last December. However, her continued dedication and growing success makes her an excellent example of how one should approach sustainability. As the Co-Founder of Zady.com, Maxine has set out to recreate the world of retail by connecting people, nourishing the demand for authenticity and sustainability, and bringing back the slow-fashion movement for coming generations. Not to mention, she's got a background in international law and advocacy which led her to work in Africa and consequently inspired the launch of The Bootstrap Project, a nonprofit organization devoted to helping artisans in the developing world.

photo via Julie Straus

If you haven't noticed, Baublebar is everywhere right now, and it's not just a by-product of their affordable statement jewelry. At the forefront of e-commerce brands who's strategy is to cut out the middleman, Baublebar has enrolled the help of Julie Straus to handle the company's global digital and offline partnerships. With previous experience leading PopSugar Media's direct e-commerce and an MBA from Harvard, Julie is equipped with the know-how for running both a brick and mortar business and a virtual one.

photo via Liz Bacelar

Decoded Fashion is a global event series that connects the top tech founders and decision-makers in the fields of fashion, beauty, and retail. As the Founder and CEO, Liz Bacelar has a well-rounded background in communications and as an Emmy-nominated network TV producer. Her familiarity with the fashion and technology worlds has led her to host a variety of events that reach over 7,000 executives, entrepreneurs, and investors in more than 12 countries via summits, expos, pitch competitions, hackathons, newsletters, mentorship sessions, and networking events.

These women are leaders in the fashion industry and with the help of their expertise, we will cover the topics of conscious consumerism, fashion and technology, and the evolution of Fortune 500 companies and start-ups. We invite you to join us on Thursday, July 24th at 12:30PM at Texworld USA. Be sure to check out the full seminar schedule and we look forward to seeing you there! 

NY Tradeshow Roundup Spring/Summer 2015

Despite the winter storms and dropping temperatures, we made it to all the apparel fabric tradeshows here in NY. This year we did not only confirm the seasonal colours and fabric trends but we sought after the most innovative fabrics that meet our demand for comfort in our ever evolving lifestyles.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Premier Vision NY and Indigo are the first to open up each season for fabric trade shows worldwide, which gives us a great advantage point. This Spring Summer ‘15 show offered a broad selection of exhibitors showcasing their latest designs and styles to a large customer base which generated a steady flow of attendees.

The most predominant colours were shades of blue tones including everything from indigo, cobalt, and mint to light blue with a continuation into greens of sea foam, teal, and moss. Yellow ranged from citrus to soft pastel shades to a warm mimosa yellow. Candy colours continued to be strong in pale and muted tones along with natural colours which all enhances the brights.

Femininity rules in transparent fabrics, delicate constructed laces, eyelet, tulles and webbed like elements, sheers, transparency effects, sheens, sparkles, pearlescent sheens across knits and wovens. In prints we saw tribal, flowers from dense to open designs, watercolour influences, tropicals, fresh vertical stripes (mostly in knits), textured fabrics in either graphic, linear or circular patterns, and mostly tone on tones to offset the feminine mood. Sportswear fabrics were key in neoprene, nylons, scuba materials, mesh, imprinted, and embossed.

Our picks for the most innovative exhibitors are:

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Based in Japan, Mitsubishi Rayon Group is the sole manufacturer of tri-acetate fibre Soalon ™ which provides water absorbency, quick dry, and lightweight properties to womenswear. With these fibres, garments can be machine washed on gentle cycle and ironed. So far such well known brands like Balenciaga, Lanvin, Haute Hippe, DVF, Tori Burch, Tara Jarmon, Miu Miu, Max Mara, and Banana Republic are already working with Soalon.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Established in Istanbul in 1970 with a mere two weaving looms, Ozdoku has significantly grown to specialize in structured wovens and performance fabrics like double faced cotton, poly-blends, stretch and satin finishes. These properties create a nice, comfortable hand which has been purchased by companies like Club Monaco, Express, Chicos, and White House Black Market in the past.

photo via Prints of Orange

At Indigo we would like to mention an outstanding company that we came across called Prints of Orange. This textile design studio is based in Connecticut and represents numerous designers from around the globe that delivers a range of original and trend driven designs for the fashion, home furnishings, accessories and paper goods industries.

From paint splatters, smudges, butterflies, and watercolor themes in light pastels to geometric hand printed florals in white, blue, or black, the designs from Prints of Orange all reflected a shift towards artistic, abstract notions. Digital influences continued by altering hand painted prints and realistic knitwear designs. Overall, lines were super fine and mirrored effects, specifically in embroidered prints stood out. However, the most popular prints were contrasted against white backgrounds.

Next on our trade show circuit was of course the most innovative denim and sportswear fabric show, The Kingpins Show. While Kingpins continues to expand globally by adding Amsterdam to its roster in May, the show has maintained its neighborly, intimate setting that we've all grown to love. 

The Kingpins tradeshow was held in a great space called the Tunnel and despite a major snowstorm, the show was absolutely packed. The interior was made up of brick walls and unlike past seasons, the whole exhibition was on one floor. We loved the presentation in the entrance where various denim pieces were on display. This year, the invite-only Kingpins show celebrated 9.5 years and the exhibitors and buyers were just as excited to be a part of it as ever.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

At Invista, we discussed the importance of merging activewear and fashion. Pioneers like Nike and Adidas are now integrating technical qualities into denim to give it more diverse value. This performance denim now has Thermolite ® to keep the wearer dry and warm during cold weather, Coolmax ® to keep you cool and dry,  and Toughmax ™ which withstands the rigor of every day active life in a normal weight. And, by adding Lycra, it creates extra comfort.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

While visiting Cotton Inc, we were walked through their various products, one we would like to mention specifically called storm denim.  This new innovation combines performance with design in a woven fabric and also offers breathable water repellent protection. 

We also had an interesting conversation with Armin Sachathrep, Director of AMC, who along with Viresh Varma from ADL/Arvind confirmed that Coolmax is not yet perfected like its counterpart heat tech. Coolmax still has too much of a polyester feeling. According to Varma, a lot of customers are showing interest in this performance technology in denim but since the hand is not very soft yet buyers really aren't going for it.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Kurabo Denim carries premium denim from Japan and offers performance denim that creates warmth called Thermal (81% Cotton, 11% Acrylic, 7%Cupra, 1% Spandex). For cold fibers, they use Xylithol a natural chemical, used in chewing gum. With a mill in China and a spinning mill in Thailand, they are able to provide premium denim at a more competitive price point.

Our final stop was Texworld where exhibitors were extremely happy to see a steady flow of buyers especially since the weather was much less harsh on the second day! Overall, the trade shows this week were much slower than usual due to the polar vortex conditions.

Of course we headed to the trend forum first. The set up was very well done and the fabrics were organized by color schemes, which was very refreshing. The themes for each trend were well illustrated and created an easily read story. Pretty much all of what we saw overlapped with PV and further confirmed our S/S 2015 predictions.

photo via Tradegood

As the match-making partner of Texworld USA, Tradegood, is a B2B sourcing community that connects responsible buyers with trusted suppliers from around the world and works to facilitate the buyer's experience. At the show, all participants could partake in the complimentary service by filling out an application during the registration process and once the application is received, Tradegood finds suitable suppliers onsite that complement the buyers' specifications.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

With a drastic increase in fashion performance functionality in the last 4 years, Hyperbola is committed to outdoor, fashion, and casual fabrics. Their 3D embossed foam fabric is doing really well in the activewear arena because it's all about combining fashion and function to address the unpredictable weather patterns. The performance fabrics they carry are: Anti-bacteria, Anti-UV temperature changing fabrics, really new technical materials that change colours according to heat. For instance, in cold climates, fabrics turn into a grey metallic foil material to protect heat.

 photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Toray is a manufacturer and fabrics sourcing company that has seen athletic wear cross over to fashion apparel and the other way around. Printing on nylon has become a fast growing trend that is becoming very popular for down jackets as well as microfiber products that are soft and lightweight.

From the most technical, high performance fabric qualities to abstract, watercolor inspired prints, and blue hues from dark to light, we are seeing more of a balance between high fashion and activewear influences. Our lives are more demanding than ever and with that, grows a need for fabrications that are durable, weather adapting, and of course, comfortable. 

American Beauty

We have been following the Made in the USA movement since early 2012 and this year, it's beginning to really reach its peak. Due to the recent tragedies in Bangladesh, Cambodia, and Haiti, larger more established companies are linking up with new and innovative ones who are specifically geared towards a Made in America mentality.

video via Manufacture NY

One of our favorite organizations, Manufacture NY has collaborated with Texworld USA to connect independent designers with exhibitors who offer smaller minimums, eco-friendly textiles, and domestic sourcing. Manufacture NY's mission is to "reawaken and rebuild" the fashion industry by fostering the next wave of creative talent all while remaining transparent and sustainable. Their headquarters are based right in the Garment District and furnished with sampling rooms, classrooms, conference rooms, fitting rooms, computer stations, and already in use by over dozens of local designers and members. According to the founder Bob Bland, "The fashion loving public is embracing Made in the USA and it has become a major selling point." They have already started promoting for Fashion Week as they partner with retailer Adorama who specializes in photo shoot equipment rentals, to produce a state-of-the-art runway experience.

video via Ecouterre

Most recently we attended the event, Made in the USA Founder Forum 2014, organized by Manufacture NY that hosted a panel of experts including the co-founders of Maker's Row. This online marketplace introduces American manufacturers to businesses and has literally broken down transparency into a 6 step process, from sketch to production. And now, they are taking it to the schools to help emerging designers understand the know-how of manufacturing so they will have the choice to either work for Fortune 500 companies or build their own brands. Not to mention, they have teamed up with Cotton Inc to gain more insight about cotton growth as well as to connect textile firms with US cotton growers.

photo via Sourcing Journal Online

As this enthusiasm for Made in America continues to gain popularity across the US and consumers make it clear that there is a demand, retailers like Brooks Brothers and Walmart are finally seeing the value in promoting locally made products. With that said, the advantages are pretty obvious – lower shipping costs and weather adaptable production – which is why, preserving the Garment District has become such a powerful cause. Ralph Lauren is just one of the major fashion houses supporting NY garment manufacturers by contributing to the Fashion Manufacturing Initiative, a partnership between the CFDA and Andrew Rosen to help grow and sustain existing factories within the five boroughs.

photo via Made In NYC

Since NYC is home to almost 7,000 small factories, producing everything from pianos to fashion to food, printing, and furnishings, there's also Made In NYC, a project of the Pratt Center for Community Development. This organization not only caters to manufacturers but also consumers who can shop local products, learn about emerging designers, promote sustainability, and even create jobs. In the end, for any city to be fully sustainable, local manufacturing is a crucial component and with so many bustling industries, NYC has an undeniable potential to live up to.

photo via fashionista.com

Nanette Lepore, who is a major advocate for saving the Garment District is just one of the many designers committed to the diversity and craftsmanship sitting right here in midtown. Most recently, she's caught the eye of new Mayor, Bill de Blasio by dressing his wife, Chirlane McCray and daughter at his NYC inauguration. In a statement made by McCray, "Chiara and I are proud to be wearing this beautiful clothing today, that was made right here in New York City. This city needs more creative entrepreneurs like Nanette Lepore who are committed to keeping our city's garment industry thriving."

video via Flint and Tinder

Flint and Tinder, who just launched a new shirt and slack line called "Perfect Flannel," is another US made brand you need to know about. If that's not enough to win you over, all their products have a 100% quality guarantee, including their 10-year hoodie and locally made men's underwear line.

Even the shoe pioneer New Balance is on a crusade to produce the first fully American made sneaker. While about a quarter of their shoes are already labeled "Made in the USA," they still contain components made overseas so let the challenge begin!

Whether you've already jumped on the Made in the US bandwagon or not, there are a ton of brands made right here that you may not even realize, and this is just the start. 

Best of the Best

Market Week in NY was quite busy this time around, covering the smaller shows first then moving on to the larger ones. After attending Capsule, D&A, and Moda Manhattan, we've handpicked our favorite brands showing Spring/Summer 2014.

photo via Capsule

Overall Capsule had an amazing variety of vendors from menswear and womenswear to knitwear, accessories, lingerie, and even high-end toys! With it's welcoming atmosphere and individual designer booths, the space had a modern earthy feel. Upon entering, we were definitely curious as to what we were going to see this time around.

photo via Wood Wood

Based out of Copenhagen, Wood Wood hopes to slow the pace of their customers' experience by "making their own universe" and rarely exhibiting at trade shows. Not to mention, they only post images of their collections right before launching to ensure exclusivity and anticipation for their clientele. We loved their new line which featured a plethora of varsity inspirations from marble to mineral to crystal inspired prints in mint green, blue, and tan tones.

photo via Shades of Grey by Micah Cohen

BPMW Showroom is a multi-label showroom in NY and LA that is also showing at the Berlin Capsule Show. Here we came across Shades of Grey by Micah Cohen which is a fairly large collection but sold at an accessible price point at Anthropologie, Neiman Marcus, and Nordstrom. Showing it's second season of womenswear, this label incorporates activewear into everyday pieces with their Spring Collection reminiscent of military inspirations, nature based prints, and varsity jackets in a variety of blue tones.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Between the Lower East Side and Shanghai, Baby Ghost is an international three year old label which manufactures as well as produces fabric at their own factories based in China. This season they were inspired by the movie Spring Breakers and incorporated quirky details like hotel towel inspired pieces. Currently they are working with the Chinese retailer, Taobao.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

And of course the highlight of the show was Etsy with the launch of their new wholesale site. The entire booth was made to show what the website will look like in real life. The concept is called a "discovery platform" and is an excellent way to help independent designers and boutiques to find each other. "All items are juried to ensure quality and brand-fit. We are looking for designers that exemplify the Etzy ethos" says Senior Program Manager,Vanessa Bertozzi."
Partnering with Nordstrom, this platform gives the designer complete control of the selling/retail process and distribution.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

New York is D&A's biggest show with mostly urban and international womenswear and accessory brands carefully curated. The atmosphere was intimate with comfortable areas on each floor to sit and talk including delicious catered food – a perfect setting for a cozy working environment. 

We had a chance to chat and walk the floor with one of the founding partners of the D&A, Barbara Kramer who is definitely a “connector” having a great relationship with every exhibitor and always available and open for communication and changes. We will feature and interview her about the way the connecter works lives and what inspires her – so stay tuned!

photo via Essent'ial

Essent'ial is an Italian company that uses 100% recycled materials and can be credited for making the paper bench cushions seen around the D&A show. The brand began after the creator, who once owned a printing company, wanted to give a new life to all the wasted paper. Some of the pieces are multi-functioning and all of the products made from recycled paper are coated so they can be washed like any other garment. This is their first season making clothes and while they don't sell in any stores in NYC just yet, they can be found at their showroom.

photo via Louiza Babouryan

With a sculptural approach to fashion, Louiza Babouryan explores the relationship between opposing forces through her fluidity and drapery. Made in LA, her Spring 2014 Collection was inspired by the Mediterranean and old communion dresses. With a touch of French Romanticism, she takes white and nude color combinations and mixes them with fabrications of sheer, silk, and linen.

photo via Péro

Péro, which means to wear in Marwari, is the local language of Rajasthan. The label which was launched by Aneeth Arora, is about a mindset that merges international style with local materials and skills and in doing so connects with people from all over the world. What makes this brand so special is that each material passes through the hands of one craftsperson to another linking it to different Indian traditions and culture. Currently the womenswear line is available at ABC Home in New York and a children's wear line will be available soon.

photo via Valia Gabriel

Back in 2009, Valia Gabriel started designing sandals and in 2011 she launched her own signature line. Influenced by Ancient Greece, each pair is handmade on the island of Crete and captures both the comfort and practicality of the brand. Her design approach reflects a minimalist aesthetic and earthy choices of color to create simple and flawlessly beautiful footwear.

photo via Moda Manhattan

Located at the enormous Javits Center, Moda Manhattan was the largest trade show on our circuit and packed with hundreds of vendors from all over the world. Despite the size, it was not overwhelming since the show is split into Moda, Fame and the Accessories Show. We felt lightness throughout the different shows with their well-designed areas to sit, including at times the desperately needed charging stations. The overall mood seemed very positive and the majority of exhibitors felt very well placed within the different shows.

photo via Second Yoga Denim 

Second Yoga Denim is made in Canada and uses high quality denim with a 100% stretch cotton (aka no polyester). With a 94% memory to your body, these jeans have a patented six piece waistband as well as a patented manufacturing technique that only uses the bias to create ultimate stretch. While they are jeans, the brand is confident that with so much stretch that never stretches out you can even do yoga in them, hence the name. If you're feeling intrigued and want to give them a try you can find them at Nordstrom now!

photo via Leota

Designed by Sarah Carson Cloud and made right here in New York, Leota is inspired by the classic Hollywood era and adds glamour to the everyday wardrobes of women across the country. All prints are designed in house and from signature wrap dresses to reversible dresses to night dresses, separates, and accessories, the brand is quickly expanding to produce a versatile range of easy to wear pieces. Their Spring collection is called Birds and Bees and can be found at Nordstrom as soon as this Spring.

To round it up, we feel we got a fantastic rundown of what will be in stores for Spring/Summer 2014 and an accurate confirmation of our seasonal forecast. Not to mention, the brands we have handpicked for you today are at the forefront of innovation and design. Keep an eye and an ear out for these labels as they take the industry by storm and show us their talent and unique approach to the future. 

Talking Integrity With Tara St James

After chatting with her as part of the "Sustainable Fashion Tour of NYC" a few weeks ago, we had to get to know more about Tara St James, and who wouldn't? Owner and head designer of the Brooklyn based sustainable label, Study New York, Tara continues to bring integrity and honesty to the table in everything she does.

photo via Sarah Kerens

MBF Trend Consulting: Please tell us more about your company and your background.

Tara St James: I knew very young that I wanted to design clothes and work in fashion. I studied menswear in college because I liked the rigid structure of tailoring. I still apply a lot of those principles to my womenswear designs. Another underlying principle I learned from studying menswear - though it was not mentioned outright - was a disregard for trendy items, with a focus on craftsmanship, fit and longevity of wear. I started my career working in the denim industry, then worked for larger fast fashion brands in Montreal and New York. In 2009 I left my last job designing a high street brand called Covet and started Study. I started Study at a time in my career when I was very frustrated with fast fashion and mass production. With Study, we wanted to not just source sustainable materials but also produce them locally. There is a bit of a disconnect between sourcing sustainable materials and then producing garments in a large factory in China. I had a lot of experience sourcing sustainable materials through previous roles, however, producing the clothing locally was something completely new for me, very different, but a really enjoyable experience. I love being so hands on. We have also looked at our business model and want to provide an alternative to fast fashion and the traditional fashion calendar. We have moved away from seasonal collections, which never made sense to me. We now provide monthly editions and develop a few new pieces for the months ahead. This has been a great change for me and the stores love it as they are getting new stock in that is relevant to the time of year and can really build a collection.

photo via Christine Arndt

MBF: What is the meaning behind your company name “STUDY?” 

TSJ: The name was born of a desire I had to really examine my production process and focus on a different technique every season. That began with zero waste patternmaking, then progressed to weaving, knitting, dyeing, printing, pleating, etc... Now that I'm no longer producing seasonal collections I still focus on different techniques but I spread that focus over several months rather than each edition. 

MBF: You are involved in different projects like the Uniform Project and the Awamaki Lab. Can you tell us a bit more about the new tradeshow concept “Origin” taking place in Italy next year?

TSJ: I was invited by Not Just a Label to a teaser event for their new concept in trade fairs, called Origin. I believe NJAL has done a better job explaining the concept than I could, but I wrote a little about the experience on my blog. It was an enriching experience for me and I'm grateful to have been invited to participate, meet other designers and industry professionals, and partake of Italian hospitality for a few days!

photo via Christine Arndt

MBF: What are the biggest changes you have seen in your industry in the last year?

TSJ: 2013 seems to be a year for change for a lot of people, especially in my circle of friends and colleagues. This change is occurring on both the personal and professional level in many lives. For me it began a time of introspection into my business model. The fashion calendar never felt right for me. When I started Study in 2009 it was with a collection called The Square Project, a collection of zero waste garments made using squares, and it was intended to be more of a research project than a collection – hence the name, STUDY – but I was quickly absorbed into the fashion system and therefore the calendar. It took until now for me to realize that I didn’t have to subscribe to anything, and I could create my own calendar. While I’m not the first designer to choose to work outside the traditional fashion calendar (producing seasonal collections), it has become increasingly obvious to me that not only do the production methods used by fast fashion companies as well as the fabric choices designers make have a huge impact on our environment and the socio-economic well-being of other human beings, but our consumption has gotten so out of control that a statement needs to be made. By eliminating collections from my business model, and only producing a few garments every month, much closer to the season and when I feel there is a need for them on the market, my goal is to limit the availability of the brand to customers and hope they will carry these consumption values to other items. I only produce what I believe is beautiful and wanted. I believe consumers are starting to demand this change and are seeking out beautifully made, long-lasting quality garments that eschew trends. Fast fashion will reach a plateau very soon and send customers back to wanting original but less temporary items.

photo via Tara St James

MBF: What have been/are your biggest challenges in the industry?

TSJ: The greatest change I have seen with the business is the dialogue that has happened between myself and my retail outlets. Not only have they been incredibly supportive of the change but it has allowed me to really learn more about their needs and interactions with their customers. I have yet to figure out how I want to maneuver sales to my retailers. In the past I worked with a showroom and attended trade shows where buyers could come and order the next season's collection. Now I find myself needing to send styles out to the retailers once a month and while photos are a good way of doing this, I don't believe it's the only solution, so at present I'm talking regularly to my retailers to figure out the best way to approach them monthly with new product.

MBF: Since sustainability and technology are the major drivers of any industry, do you find that this shift is trickling across the industry?

TSJ: The fashion industry is notorious for being slow to adopt technology and the two have yet to find a harmonious relationship despite the recent enthusiasm for 3D printing and ecommerce apps pushing the industry forward. Speaking strictly on a sustainability focused level, technology has been tremendously important in recent years with radical changes in water and chemical treatment facilities, printing and dyeing technologies, fiber separating and recycling plants, etc... and soon I believe designers with an interest in sourcing sustainably will have an edge over those who do not mainly because of their understanding of these "new" production processes.

MBF: Where are you thinking of taking Study in the near future?

TSJ: I want to include more collaboration in the Study brand, whether it's for the main product range, an off-shoot or for private label development with my retailers. I love the idea of product development on a broader scale. 

NY Trade Show Roundup Fall/Winter 2014-15

As the Fall 2014-15 trade shows approached upon us, we attended the regular circuit, noticing more subtle innovations along the way compared to previous seasons. However, despite, it's definitely crystal clear where fabrics and prints are headed as we move forward.

From imitation furs to heathered and mélange looks, speckled fabrications and even worn in prints that allude to different surface qualities, this time around it was all about tricking the eye with texture! Other highlights included mono-stretch in everything from knits to suiting, double faced fabrics, and sparkly, iridescent yarns in laces, knits, and jacquards. Color-wise, we saw many more solids versus prints, with bright, vibrant hues still proving their potential.

photo via WWD

We kicked off our fabric frenzied week at Texworld. This year, we went on day two of the show and as usual, our first stop was the trend forum. Here we saw an abundance of texture, shimmer, sparkles, lasercuts, and embellishments. In addition, double-facing, matte shades, and imitation fabrics were popping up everywhere. While we didn't see as many prints as usual on display, there was a new range of solid colors that were soft, deep, quiet, and neutralized with some brights as highlights. Overall, the show was rather slow and surprisingly enough, although Texworld is manufacturing focused, we came across many attendees from retail companies.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

One of the companies that really stood out was Hi-Tec Industrial Co., LTD based in Taiwan. They had a great selection of checks, houndstooth patterns, and blurred in plush wools, many in two tone combinations. For more information about their products, please contact them at evonne@hi-teck.tw.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

We also loved how Syrara Ltd. incorporated stripes into their textured designs. Not to mention, many contain a mixture of polyester, rayon, and spandex. So if you're looking for texture, you must email Syrara Ltd. at sales@syraya.com.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

For a more feminine feel, Shaoxing Boss Textiles Co., LTD, featured lots of lace with iridescent characteristics as well as lace look-a-like fabrics and antique floral printed laces. They also introduced a new silver fiber that has anti-bacterial deodorant, anti-electromagnetic radiation, anti-static, and also regulates body temperature. This new innovation is a great leap forward for the exhibitor, that can be reached via email at sxboss2011@gmail.com.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

One of our favorite things about the trade show season is catching all the familiar faces at The Kingpins Show in NY. Nothing beats a sense of community, handpicked exhibitors, and a relaxed atmosphere, full of people who are not only "in the know" about denim and casual wear, but really want to be there. The crowd was lively and the space updated with contemporary touches of an outdoor garden combined with antique living room furniture, all with a communal twist, of course. We mentioned it last week briefly in our excerpt on Stoll Knitting and we'll say it again, Europe keep an eye out, because The Kingpins Show is launching in Amsterdam in April 2014!

photo via TRC Candiani Denim

Unfortunately, we missed The Kingpins after-party, celebrating TRC Candiani Denim's 75th Anniversary with a fabulous denim sculpture cake created by the infamous Cake Boss. The "Made In Italy" label uses recycled water, no harsh chemicals, and garments can eventually be recycled after use. They are also credited for inventing stretch denim with 100% recovery that is both soft and light.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Kipas Denim featured a great selection of imitation denim that is actually woven knits. They come in three different weights and colors, with the interior and exterior in different hues. The fabric is strong, durable, and has excellent growth and recovery, eliminating the fold in the knee.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Over at Protrim, we became familiar with some of the garment processing machines they use in the denim industry. Using a LST laser to replace the finishing stage, a wide array of different visual effects can be produced from destruction to burn foil to ripping. These designs all look exactly the same and are completed in a timely manner. They also sell an assortment of washing machines that use 50-75% less water. So far companies like AG Jeans and Citizens of Humanity are equipped with their products and we suspect many more will come.

photo via PVNY

And of course, our last stop of the week was at PVNY and Directions by Indigo. The main PV space has definitely been growing in exhibitors over the past few seasons, as amenities have moved upstairs to it's sister print show. Indigo now takes up three floors including a barely noticeable trend forum pushed to the back corner on the top floor. According to both suppliers and our own candid eye, it looked as if attendance was definitely up as well as an increase in orders being placed.

photo via PVNY

After a brief visit at the color forum, we headed over to the trend forum which similar to Texworld, lacked in prints. The texture theme continued with worn in looking surfaces and mélange and heathered knits, both slinky and soft or structured and firm. Mono and bi stretches were pretty much universal in everything from knits to wools to suiting. Iridescent sheens, brushed surfaces, and double sided fabrics also caught our eye, and touch for that matter. Menswear influences in the form of stripes, checks, houndstooth, and herringbone paired with darker colors of brownish reds, ruby, dusty blue, navy, and greys from light to dark. The prints we did see had much more of a graphic appeal with either digitized roses, kaleidoscope effects, sketchy plaids, or washed out appearances and paint splotches.

photo via Surface Print Source

Switching gears to Indigo, we spoke with Melanie Bergwall of Surface Print Source who explained the hot prints this season were sweet plaids with motifs layered on top, conversationals, fruits as in pumpkins, florals with dark grounds, and prints resembling tweeds.

With the help of new technological innovations and simply a desire for newness, texture and the illusion of it continues to grow in demand. We've seen so many prints and bright colors for so long that it's about time we are in for a change. As we evolve, there is becoming less of a separation between the fabrics we wear and our own skin as the touch becomes just as, if not more important than the visual components of our clothing. We are moving into an age where we can create pretty much anything we can think up. With that said, we will continue to keep you up to date on all the latest trends as they reach the industry because the next greatest thing is barely a season away!