American Beauty

We have been following the Made in the USA movement since early 2012 and this year, it's beginning to really reach its peak. Due to the recent tragedies in Bangladesh, Cambodia, and Haiti, larger more established companies are linking up with new and innovative ones who are specifically geared towards a Made in America mentality.

video via Manufacture NY

One of our favorite organizations, Manufacture NY has collaborated with Texworld USA to connect independent designers with exhibitors who offer smaller minimums, eco-friendly textiles, and domestic sourcing. Manufacture NY's mission is to "reawaken and rebuild" the fashion industry by fostering the next wave of creative talent all while remaining transparent and sustainable. Their headquarters are based right in the Garment District and furnished with sampling rooms, classrooms, conference rooms, fitting rooms, computer stations, and already in use by over dozens of local designers and members. According to the founder Bob Bland, "The fashion loving public is embracing Made in the USA and it has become a major selling point." They have already started promoting for Fashion Week as they partner with retailer Adorama who specializes in photo shoot equipment rentals, to produce a state-of-the-art runway experience.

video via Ecouterre

Most recently we attended the event, Made in the USA Founder Forum 2014, organized by Manufacture NY that hosted a panel of experts including the co-founders of Maker's Row. This online marketplace introduces American manufacturers to businesses and has literally broken down transparency into a 6 step process, from sketch to production. And now, they are taking it to the schools to help emerging designers understand the know-how of manufacturing so they will have the choice to either work for Fortune 500 companies or build their own brands. Not to mention, they have teamed up with Cotton Inc to gain more insight about cotton growth as well as to connect textile firms with US cotton growers.

photo via Sourcing Journal Online

As this enthusiasm for Made in America continues to gain popularity across the US and consumers make it clear that there is a demand, retailers like Brooks Brothers and Walmart are finally seeing the value in promoting locally made products. With that said, the advantages are pretty obvious – lower shipping costs and weather adaptable production – which is why, preserving the Garment District has become such a powerful cause. Ralph Lauren is just one of the major fashion houses supporting NY garment manufacturers by contributing to the Fashion Manufacturing Initiative, a partnership between the CFDA and Andrew Rosen to help grow and sustain existing factories within the five boroughs.

photo via Made In NYC

Since NYC is home to almost 7,000 small factories, producing everything from pianos to fashion to food, printing, and furnishings, there's also Made In NYC, a project of the Pratt Center for Community Development. This organization not only caters to manufacturers but also consumers who can shop local products, learn about emerging designers, promote sustainability, and even create jobs. In the end, for any city to be fully sustainable, local manufacturing is a crucial component and with so many bustling industries, NYC has an undeniable potential to live up to.

photo via fashionista.com

Nanette Lepore, who is a major advocate for saving the Garment District is just one of the many designers committed to the diversity and craftsmanship sitting right here in midtown. Most recently, she's caught the eye of new Mayor, Bill de Blasio by dressing his wife, Chirlane McCray and daughter at his NYC inauguration. In a statement made by McCray, "Chiara and I are proud to be wearing this beautiful clothing today, that was made right here in New York City. This city needs more creative entrepreneurs like Nanette Lepore who are committed to keeping our city's garment industry thriving."

video via Flint and Tinder

Flint and Tinder, who just launched a new shirt and slack line called "Perfect Flannel," is another US made brand you need to know about. If that's not enough to win you over, all their products have a 100% quality guarantee, including their 10-year hoodie and locally made men's underwear line.

Even the shoe pioneer New Balance is on a crusade to produce the first fully American made sneaker. While about a quarter of their shoes are already labeled "Made in the USA," they still contain components made overseas so let the challenge begin!

Whether you've already jumped on the Made in the US bandwagon or not, there are a ton of brands made right here that you may not even realize, and this is just the start. 

A Bit of Holiday Magic

With Thanksgiving and Black Friday over, our eyes can fully concentrate on the holidays! What marketing campaigns are launching this season to lure consumers into stores, both online and off?  As more and more shoppers shift their focus to cyber shopping, social media is becoming the strongest marketing tool to date. So let's have a look at what is going on in the retail industry as 2013 draws to a close.

photo via WWD

Retailers aren't sure which approach to take for their holiday initiatives so instead they are doing it all. Sales start sooner, run longer and an array of promotions from discounts to free shipping to same day deliveries and giveaways are all being heavily marketed. Consumer expectations are high and competition among stores is becoming even more cut throat. It's not only about a good sale, but one that is also convenient, innovative, and offers some type of curated experience. Hence why retailers like Etsy, Zady, and Toms have found such success with their specialized gifting guides.

video via Google

While things heat up between Apple and Microsoft, Google will be taking a different approach by opening "Winter Wonderlabs" in six US cities this season. These showroom style pop-ups feature cutting-edge products like Nexus 7 tablets, Chromebook computers, and even a life-size interactive snow globe.

photo via De Beers

In today's age there's nearly an app for everything and there's no denying how savy and personalized they're getting by the second. Ever dream of diamonds? Well with De Beers new in store iPad app, customers can now design their dream ring. To make it as realistic as possible, over 2,000 carats can be viewed in slow motion, compared, and shared to help find your perfect finger candy.

photo via WWD

The results are in and Americans are increasingly shopping products made right here in the US. Studies show that 44% of all gift givers are dedicated to this domestic mentality, with many being men and between the ages of 56-70. From Brooks Brothers to startups like Old School Shirt Makers, these are the companies dedicated to giving their customers the Made in the USA they now demand. Even Walmart will be promoting and selling locally made holiday gifts (with the exclusion of apparel) and in an effort to encourage US manufacturing and increase jobs, the super giant plans to purchase over $50 billion more domestic products over the next ten years.

photo via Couture With Care

In the spirit of Made In The USA, Save the Garment Center Initiative has launched a holiday promotion in conjunction with Caravan Stylist Studio where a select 40 designers will create ornaments and dreidels to decorate the holiday tree in the lobby of the Carlton Hotel. With the likes of Nanette Lepore, Nicole Miller, Ben Amun, and WALTER all partaking, how's that for some true NY holiday style!

video via fashionista.com

On thing is for sure it wouldn't be the holidays, especially here in NY, without the fabulous and festive window displays. Bergdorf's, Barneys, Bendel's, Bloomies, and Saks, which are your favorites this year?

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

So make sure to follow us for MBF's 25 Days of Instagram featuring our very own holiday picks of the coolest gifts imaginable! Enjoy the magical season!!!

FIT's Sustainable Symposium

Last Friday as a part of FIT's Sustainable Fashion, Health, and Beauty Symposium, we attended the "Sustainable Fashion Tour of NYC." Key stops included Eileen Fisher, Nanette Lepore, Stoll Fashion and Technology Center, and even a chat with Tara St James at Washington Square Park.

photo via Amy DuFault

The tour was organized by Amy DuFault, a sustainable fashion writer, editor, and consultant with over 9 years of experience repping eco designers, co-owning a "conscious clothing" boutique as well as holding a position as editor for the online magazine, EcoSalon. Her mission is to unite the sustainable fashion community through events, collaborations and the creation of "Brain Trust," which connects over 100 members from the community, from farmers to investors. Not to mention, she is also selling t-shirts that call to end fast fashion by supporting what's really important, workers' rights.

photo via Amy DuFault

We all are familiar with the brand Eileen Fisher, but how many of you know the fashion house has a green program that takes used cloth back and donates it to non for profits? After speaking with designer Mimi Wong, we also learned about their domestic sweater production constructed in a small family owned knitting factory in Long Island, which is basically nonexistent here in the US. The brand is also extremely conscious from noting garment contents on labels to communicating fair trade fabrics and social responsibility initiatives on their website to auditing factories and offering workers training programs.

photo via Amy DuFault

Nanette Lepore not only works very close to the season, with Fall 2013 production and delivery, Spring 2014 sales, and Fall 2014 sourcing all happening simultaneously, but the label also produces up to 500 plus pieces per month in eight different factories based in New York. Not only is Nanette Lepore a valued member of the Save the Garment District initiative, but Nanette Lepore has expanded her "Made In The USA" mentality by manufacturing quality, handcrafted shoes at a factory in downtown Los Angeles.

photo via Stoll Knitting

Stoll Knitting is a German knitting machine manufacturer whose core business is selling machines. With the new technology of their multi-gage knitting machine, they have created the Stoll-Denim Collection, an entire knitwear line made with either no seams or fully fashioned to reduce waste. Word around the industry is that this new technology may be featured at the Kingpins Show in Amsterdam in 2014 so keep a look out!

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Tara St James is the owner and head designer of Study New York, a sustainable womenswear label based in Brooklyn which tackles another sustainable component of the production process with every collection. Currently, she takes a seasonless approach to design and releases 3-4 new pieces per month. Through better, more direct communication from start to finish of the supply chain, she believes we can further move forward towards a transparent and more conscious industry. Stay tuned for a full fledged interview with Tara in one of of upcoming blogs!

Getting Personal with Allison Parris

Since New York Fashion Week ends today, we'd like to celebrate by featuring the face behind the eco-friendly and socially conscious, Allison Parris New York, Allison Parris herself. We were lucky enough to attend her Spring/Summer 2013 Fashion Event last Friday and not only did we have a blast, but the clothes looked fabulous – from sequin embellished racerbacks to fun, silk party dresses with cutouts!

photo via Allison Parris New York

MBF Trend Consulting: How did you get into fashion? And what is your background?

Allison Parris: I grew up in a creative household, my mother is an interior designer and my father is a photographer and public relations consultant, so artistic development was highly encouraged! I started training in pattern making and sewing while still a teenager, and I was designing gowns for clients in the Detroit area. I then moved to New York and graduated from the Fashion Design Program at FIT with a specialization in special occasion. I’ve then worked with Catherine Malandrino and Cynthia Rowley for a couple of years before starting my collection.

MBF: How would you describe your personal style?

AP: Haha, well on a daily basis – jeans/t shirt/ no makeup…not very glam…but when going out, it’s always the highest heels possible, tutus and beaded party dresses! I love dressing up!

video via Allison Parris New York

MBF: What is the story behind your collection for Spring 2013?

AP: The designs of SS13 have been influenced by a handful of women I know who are confident, successful, ambitious and kind. They all have an enviable distinct personal style and a dedication to what they do, which is something I always find inspiring.

MBF: We know that you utilize the factories here in New York’s garment district and we have read that you support “Made In The USA” on your blog, what inspired you to do this? And how else do you incorporate sustainability into your line?

AP: I use sustainable and organic fabrics such as raw organic silk, recycled PET satin and netting. We use recycled PET for all of our linings, as well as for many of our softer nettings and one taffeta.

photo via Allison Parris New York

MBF: How would you describe your customer?

AP: We have many different types of customers, but overall, our girls are not slaves to the fad of the week. Despite the occasional loud color, sequin, whatever – we tend to stick more to a classic style and our customers do too – at any age.

MBF: We’ve heard a couple of celebrities have been spotted wearing some of your pieces in the past. If you could dress anyone, who is someone you would want to design for?

AP: I already do dress the women I design for :) But there are always different people who I would be happy to see in my dresses for different reasons…I love both of the Deschanel sisters, Isla Fisher, any of those “cute/quirky girls.”

photo via Allison Parris New York

MBF: What are some key pieces every girl should own?

AP: Every girl should own a mini tutu and one of our new sequin dresses like the Greta or the Arden! :)

MBF: Do you have any advice for aspiring designers or people looking to break into the industry?

AP: Persistence and common sense are the two most important qualities I look for when hiring someone – it sounds ridiculous I know, but those are two qualities of paramount importance to success in the industry which can't be taught to you when you’re on the job, you have to work on it on your own. Also, read everything you can get your hands on – WWD, Vogue, blogs, etc. (industry focused, not celeb focused).

photo via Allison Parris New York

MBF: We loved your concept for Bishops & Barrons where you designed the uniforms. We thought it was very innovative! What’s next for Allison Parris?

AP: Thanks :) Still sorting out the next big partnership, so who knows! Just playing it by ear right now!

Made For Us

As both economic and unemployment uncertainties remain apparent and our predictions are confirmed, a shift away from globalization has begun to arise as a result. In the postwar years of the 1950’s, we supported our country and bought products made here in the U.S. like cars from GM and household appliances from GE, for instance. We were given a fresh start to rebuild our economy honoring our morals, values and general patriotism. As 1950’s influences begin to resurface today, maybe this is exactly where we are headed.

photo via ABC News

A “Made In America” mindset not only brings manufacturing back to the U.S., but also creates jobs in the process. A growing appreciation, support and general patriotism takes precedence over buying elsewhere. It’s not only a phenomenon we see here in the U.S., but in northern Europe as well. Everything goes back to the ideas of tradition, quality, authenticity and handcrafted skills.

People are happy and proud to work for this country and for companies that support work in the US as well as the evolution of skill sets, which we have lost after shifting to offshore manufacturing. In our blog, This Week’s Forecast: Seasonless, we keep emphasizing how we need to change things, specifically the supply chain and start nearshoring. However, before that can happen, we need to have the skills and the knowledge here in the U.S. to enforce and ensure this shift and change.

photo via ecouterre.com

According to PBS, in the 60's, 95 percent of clothing sold in America was made here, which today dwindles to just about 5 percent. Which companies do you know that make products here? We bet you weren't aware that the likes of fashion labels such as Nanette Lepore, The Row, Rag & Bone, Oscar de la Renta, Nicole Miller, Lela Rose, J Brand and Jason Wu all do. Not to mention, the Obama administration has specifically used the fashion industry to promote a Made in America campaign to bring manufacturing jobs back to the U.S. and double exports by 2014. U.S. apparel and textile exports have grown 13.7 percent in 2011 and Deputy U.S. Trade Representative, Demetrios Marantis predicts that "export opportunities are just boundless."

photo via New York Times

Over the past two years, factories nationwide have created over 400,000 manufacturing jobs with companies like Otis, GE and Master Lock paving the path to job recovery. In addition, due to increasing prices of raw materials and logistics, over 50 percent of U.S. based importers have moved portions of their manufacturing out of China into Vietnam, Pakistan, Bangladesh or even back here to the U.S. This growth in U.S. manufactured products is affecting every industry from apparel and textiles to cars, appliances, electronics, and the list goes on.

video via vimeo

With this in mind, a potential reality TV series called Made Right Here is in the works highlighting brands that are still made right here in the U.S. From baseball gloves to belts and buckles, the show seeks to tell the stories of true American culture by introducing craftspeople and masters of the trade to the world. American manufacturing is still very much alive and the series is dedicated to promoting buying locally made merchandise, supporting U.S. skilled artisans and most importantly giving a voice to the future of traditional American industries.

photo via Williamsburg Garment Company

Locally here in New York City is the Williamsburg Garment Company which sells garments to the trade at a fraction of industry standard mark-up, with hopes that the retailer will pass on the savings to the consumer. Using a cash and carry business model, the company avoids costly expenses like unpaid invoices and returns that usually drive up prices at the wholesale level. This small one-man operation is like nothing we've seen before with its unique, transparent and high quality affordable merchandise.

photo via Plastics Today

Looking towards the South, the Houston-based professional hairdressing company, Farouk Systems does 80 percent of its production in the U.S. with costs only slightly higher than China because of improved efficiency. Mr. Shami, the chairman and main owner of the company believes, "If you can say your products come from a U.S. factory, that conveys a good image and I believe this has helped us expand." Looking beyond cost effectiveness there is a much deeper worth, pride in the products one makes. As more companies begin to value their image and this country, a trend towards re-shoring addresses the direct creation of U.S. jobs and nationwide dignity.

With rising costs in China, increasing productivity of U.S. workers, supply chain risks and weather unpredictability, the U.S. is becoming progressively valuable in the world of manufacturing. From small start ups to large corporations, more and more companies are cutting ties with China and re-shoring manufacturing back to the U.S., as a promise for better job security, changing consumer attitudes and nationwide pride ensues. Looking at an array of companies already based in the U.S., the skills and knowledge are here and making a major comeback. As we continually realize the value of these skill sets, we will become more equipped to take on the shifting supply chain and protect American culture and industry.

From all of us here at MBF, have a happy and healthy Earth Day!

Fashion's Cutting-Edge Talent

The one constant in fashion is change and that’s a fact. While the fashion industry thrives on innovation, there’s nothing like some cutting-edge talent! Today we would like to highlight the best up and coming international designers that are about to take the stage or should we say catwalk?

photo via style.com

Stealing some of the spotlight is a Russian designer, Alexandre Plokhov. Plokhov, a former menswear designer for Versace, recently launched a womenswear line at Barney’s this past September. His gothic inspired menswear line, Cloak, was discontinued in 2007 but his fine tailoring and deconstructed style has gained much attention and now is branching into the women's market.

photo via Shang Xia

Since we’ve discussed Chinese models in a past post, “All Eyes on China,” today, we’d like to also draw attention to an upcoming Chinese fashion designer, Zhang Da. Not only is he the designer behind Hermes’ label Shang Xia, but also his own independent label, Boundless. While both lines embody two very different approaches, Da draws much of his inspiration from Japanese design as well as his own traditional Chinese heritage. The buzz about China’s style will continue as the industry further develops and stimulates an onset of new innovation in design and we’re excited to see what’s to come!

photo via fashionologie.com

Who doesn’t love when a fashion veteran reinvents herself? A former designer for both Valentino and Gucci, Alessandra Facchinetti returned to the runway this past fashion week. However, this time Facchinetti teams up with the Italian fast fashion brand, Pinko, to create her collection, Uniqueness. The 60-piece collection is both non-seasonal as well as available online exactly as it was presented on the catwalk. If that isn’t fashion savvy then we don’t know what is!

photo via Elle.com

From Russian to Chinese to Italian flair, where better to end but right here in the U.S.? Designer Yara Flinn is the name behind the label Nomia, which takes a sculptural approach to design by creating artistic, edgy, and sophisticated garments. While the brand first hit the fashion scene in 2007, it has had great success at New York Fashion week as well as continue to produce all pieces right here in New York City’s historic garment district.

photo via salt & studs

Who’s got talent? Giovanna Randall sure does! From opera singer to pre-med student to now up and coming luxury fashion designer, Randall’s vast experiences have inspired her to create the line, Honor. With only two seasons under her belt, she is already opening a shop up in the Meatpacking district and is dedicated to preserving New York City's garment district.

photo via ecouterre.com

Former Season 5 Project Runway winner, Leanne Marshall, combines eco-friendly fabrications with sophisticated, feminine design. Her most recent spring/summer 2012 collection inspired by a visit to the ocean, incorporated hemp silk, bamboo jersey, and organic cotton to evoke “the way the wind moves through the sand.” She’s sure a winner in our eyes!

From around the globe and back, a distinct array of talent is giving us a new perspective not only on the industry, but the world. This contemporary energy is leading us into a new era of ever-changing values and aesthetics. We love a fresh point of view, don’t you?

Rallying around the Garment District

Yesterday's "Save the Garment Center" rally was well-attended — by fashion students, garment workers, and even high-end designers, reports the NYT — but it looks like the district could already be making a comeback. In a far cry from this summer — when Mayor Bloomberg proposed to consolidate the entire NYC garment industry into a single building — the city is now sponsoring incubator studios for young designers, who will be selected in a competition.

The 12 lucky winners will not only get a two-year lease at below-market rent in a shiny new architect-designed space, but will also receive counseling from the CFDA, making this something like a real-life Project Runway. Of course, for the landlords involved, even more than for the designers, it's a win-win situation: the floor being used for the incubator project was standing empty anyway.

Via The Cut; photo via NYT