March 28, 2011

Let's Talk About Sustainability

photo credit: Leo Jimenez

Last week, Kioka Williams and her camera team made a special visit to our offices to interview the founding partner and creative director of MBF Trend Consulting, Manuela Fassbender. Kioka Williams is a student at Sarah Lawrence College in New York. She is currently working on a documentary on the fashion system and its effects on people and the environment. Today's post highlights a few excerpts from the interview. In the full 10-minute piece expected to be released end of May, Kioka Williams will talk with other industry experts, including Timo Rissanen, assistant professor of sustainable fashion and design at Parsons, about sustainability in the fashion industry.

Kioka: There’s a shift impacting the fashion industry...

Manuela: Yes, the old systems don’t work anymore because of external forces. We don’t know exactly what the new system is going to be, but we do know a change needs to happen... In 2008 the world financial crisis happened. Following that, we had major bankruptcies and too much of the same products out all around. Brands have been fading out because of a lack of distinct branding. There is a new consumer who is expecting different things.

Kioka: What defines sustainability?

Manuela: The problem is people don’t really know what it means. It’s not only ethical production and eco fabrics, but it also includes clothes swapping, reducing waste, vintage/consignment, energy efficiency, and local production. Companies like Reco jeans and H&M are great examples of this. At the same time, we also see consumers reusing things and not just updating their wardrobe because it’s chic. We mend and fix it. These are some of the many elements of sustainable fashion.

Kioka: Do you think there’s a minimum or key elements that qualify fashion lines as sustainable?

Manuela: It’s not a revolution, it’s an evolution. The minimum is transparency. You have to make choices. It is important to start somewhere. A global index or standard would be nice but one step at a time. The market has to be sustainable together.

Kioka: There are many key words for sustainability: eco, green, slow fashion, etc. Is there a distinction between them?

Manuela: It doesn’t matter. They all stand for the same thing. It’s going to be irrelevant in a few years.

Kioka: Do you think people just follow it because it’s a trend?

Manuela: To be honest, I don’t care. As long as people do it.

Kioka: What are the major drivers of sustainability in fashion? Technology, environmental, geo-political, transparency, etc?

Manuela: Well for environmental drivers; look at the floods in China, India and Pakistan that have affected the cotton crops or the earthquakes and tsunamis in New Zealand and Japan.

Manuela: As far as geo-political drivers, we don’t have the full picture of what it all means yet. There is going to be a major backlash and disruption of the supply chain. Look at China’s riots for fair labor and pay. China is changing as a country. They can keep their factories busy to produce for their domestic market. Manufacturers are asking for more money to produce, so prices will go up and the corporate profit margin will go down. How will consumers react? In the US, it’s all about price. Also, look at the Middle East and rising oil prices. Petroleum is major. It’s in so many products and will affect us in our daily life.

Manuela: There are more investments in technological developments, specifically in fiber technology. A great example is Uniqlo’s Heat Tech. Also, there are more eco fabrics at the textile tradeshows than ever before.

Manuela: Regarding transparency as a driver – It is not only about tracing a product through out the supply chain. We have to move from an “I to a We society”. We need to collaborate, share resources and research.

Kioka: On your site you address green washing.

Manuela: Green washing is when a company that isn’t sustainable uses it as a marketing tool. Companies see it as a trend and say they are doing good for the world. It’s not a trend, it’s the future!

Kioka: What advice do you give to companies?

Manuela: Be honest, transparent, make sure your product is unique, non-disposable, meaningful and of good quality.

Kioka: If we approach it like that how do we continue to have a long shelf life?

Manuela: Profit thrives the economy, so the fashion companies want people to wear an item 5 times and throw it away. We went from slow fashion to fast fashion over the last couple of years. The H&M’s & Zara’s started to go from two collections per year to 12- every apparel company has caught up with it by now...Do you want to be a follower or a trendsetter? When we go shopping we see the same things over and over. Use sustainability as a branding tool, stick out, and create something new that will talk to the new consumer. Fast fashion caught on, but now we have to go back to slow fashion. Be the example.

Kioka: Whose going to be brave enough?

Manuela: Uniqlo, H&M, Nike, and Anvil are great companies already doing this. Are they doing it to make a lot of profit? I don’t care. There’s a movement going on and that’s where we have to go.

Kioka: To what extent can sustainability/social responsibility be a gimmick in reference to H&M and Uniqlo?

Manuela: Give H&M credit. They went from the “Garden Collection” to the Conscious Collection” within a year. These collections blend in with H&M’s fashion sensibility. You wouldn’t know the difference. There isn’t a tracking system in place yet, which would make the sustainable capsule collections even more relevant but to name this next collection “Conscious Collection” is a huge step. It’s setting the right example.

Manuela: It’s out there. That’s what matters. That’s what counts. The message is trickling down. In the mass market is where we can make an impact. If we want to change we have to reach out the masses because that’s where it counts.

Kioka: Let’s talk about the new consumer.

Manuela: They have different values like honesty, transparency, and accountability. They ask questions like where is this product made? It’s a lifestyle. It’s communicating with people, collaborate.

Kioka: How do products have to look?

Manuela: Products have to be unique and beautiful. Design doesn’t have to suffer. People need to buy based on design and not because of guilt. Sustainable products need to be marketed and merchandised with regular products to make it the “new normal.”

Kioka: How does the fashion industry have to adapt?

Manuela: Through social media, transparency and cutting edge new concepts. We need to get consumers more involved like voting on styles. You have to give consumers choices because if you don’t put the product out there they can’t buy it. Also, education is a major factor.

Kioka: How would you rank the NY industry in comparison to London?

Manuela: In general, in London and France it’s much more difficult to sell sustainable clothing lines than in Germany. It’s cultural. Germany has been doing a lot of footwork with sustainability. It’s the mindset. It’s easier for people to accept it and understand. It’s easier to market and sell. The Otto Group and C&A are great examples of this. In New York, trends appear and then we know how to market it and therefore we can move things fast. I’m hopeful for the market here. New York’s market is growing and growing and we are ready for it.

Kioka: Trying to touch on sustainability with the garment center is almost nonexistent. There’s a reluctance to be involved in anything sustainable. No one wants to hear about this word.

Manuela: It’s all about education. It needs to start in the schools. FIT, Parsons, London College of Fashion, and ESMOD are doing it. It has to be a collaboration between students and professors. We have to educate the industry from patternmakers to production, locally, overseas, and even the sales staff. Source4Style is connecting the garment industry with designers for local production. If we invest in local production, garments will be more expensive but we will have to get used to the fact that we are going to have to pay the real price of goods.

Kioka: I’m wondering about your take on the Apparel Coalition.

Manuela: There are lots of certifications for example GOTS, JOCA Pure, Oeko-Tex 100. It’s very confusing to the industry. Imagine how it must be to the consumer! The Sustainable Apparel Coalition is comprised of major companies. These large corperations are aware of the shift. It’s a very good system to have one global index. The different certifications have been baby steps. We can use this information to create one for everyone to go by. Give designers a tool like scorecards to determine how sustainable the product is. Give consumers an Iphone app where they can scan the tag and see how green it is by tracking it like the “Good Guide” with consumer products.

Kioka: There’s also the sexy factor. Have you seen sustainable fashion represented like this? Like in Vogue?

Manuela: That’s changing. We have moved on. There’s tons of beautiful product out there.

We hope you enjoyed today's post. Stay tuned for the up-and-coming "Be Smart Conference" on April 21st 2011 where Manuela is invited to be one of the 5 key speakers. 

March 24, 2011

Redefining Modern Art

We've discussed on multiple occasions of the powerful and growing influence technology has on fashion. From virtual fitting rooms, live-streamed runways, to new digital marketing platforms, technology, alongside the Internet, continues to be today's strongest driving force in reshaping many of our biggest industries.

So it is no surprise then to find that the art world has also tapped into the limitless capabilities of technology. Today, we highlight a few innovations of what is the latest in the digital art scene.

photo via: CreativePro

1. Art in Technological Times, San Francisco's MOMA
San Francisco's MOMA acknowledged this drastic shift in the contemporary art world as technology is recognized as a large component of every day life. In the last decade, artists have adopted to new technologies to make their work more relevant and reflective of today's technology-saturated society. As many museums still struggle to meet the demands of today's audiences, SFMOMA and Intel Corporation present Art in Technological Times. The exhibition is presented both on the Internet and at the SFMOMA itself, making use of both virtual and concrete spaces. The Internet ingeniously functions both as a virtual space to present the work, as well as a platform for discussion. Surveying a range of video practices, sculpture, design projects, computer-driven installations, drawings and paintings, this is one of the first exhibitions that carefully looks at the latest in contemporary art today.

video via: YouTube

2. Kunstmatrix
With Kunstmatrix, you don't need to live in a major city to see the latest art shows. As nearly everything is moving online, you can now also take a virtual "walk" and view dozens of galleries all in the convenience of your own home.

Kunstmatrix birthed from two architecture students at the TU Berlin who both recognized the potential of "virtual architecture." While virtual architecture has been around for some time, it is mainly applied to military applications, university research, or video games.

We all know from our own experiences that viewing art online is entirely different, and incomparable, from viewing art in real life. Whether it's a painting or a sculpture, all online art is typically compressed into a flat 2-dimensional photo. And if one is viewing multiple artworks, one must click through a series of thumbnails to view each picture one at a time. There is no unique experience of viewing online art.

However, the designers behind Kunstmatrix recognized this issue and created a fresh, new way of looking at art through the concept of virtual architecture.

photo via: Kunstmatrix

In essence, Kunstmatrix is a site of virtual exhibition rooms. Whether it's paintings, photos, videos, sculptures, or installations, the site can display original artwork in a full-scale and intuitive environment. The work is displayed in gallery-like setting, allowing the visitor to "walk" through the rooms as if one is really inside a gallery.

This new platform offers an innovative way for artists, gallery owners, and collectors to come together to present and sell art. Because it is presented through the web, artists have a wider audience and greater amount of publicity in comparison to a traditional gallery setting. Click here to check out the latest exhibitions.
(source: Kunstmatrix)

3. Trust Art
Social platforms are now also being applied to the art world as Trust Art aims to commission 10 public works of art over the next year with the help of crowd-funding. The site includes descriptions of each project and it's total cost, including material costs, travel, and logistical expenses. Consumers are then invited to become shareholders in any project, giving them access to the artist and network of shareholders as well as special events.

photo via: Trust Art

You are given one share for every dollar you give to a project. Shares may be given away as a gift to a larger community. Every three years, an artwork from a completed project is auctioned and profits are shared between the artists and the shareholders. 

Through this site, people are encouraged to build communities that are united through art. Based on the principles of transparency, community, and collaboration, Trust Art is "a philanthropic initiative to create a self-sustaining community for the production of public art." The concept was originally presented at a TED conference last year. Click here to watch their presentation.
(source: Trust Art)

photo via: Guardian

4. Tristan Eaton's 3D Art Book
Art books today just aren't like how it used to be in the good old days. It's better! A new book compiled by designer Tristan Eaton features over 100 works by up-and-coming artists, all in a 3D effect. Each page requires you to wear lo-fi red and blue 3D specs to bring you a completely new way of viewing art.
(source: Guardian)

March 17, 2011

Today's Startling Realities...

photo via: Inhabitat

Libya holds Africa's largest crude oil reserves, so the world feels the impact.

Because their oil supplies have been disrupted, oil prices rose nearly 7% and the conflict shows no sign of subsiding.

The country's daily production of 1.6 million barrels has declined by more than half, leading the cost of a barrel of oil to reach a record high of $107.  This is the highest level since September 2008.

Drivers have noticed the impact as pump prices increased across the United States and the rest of the world.

As a precautionary initiative, Spain recently lowered its highway speed limits to reduce oil usage and will decrease train fares by 5 percent -- an incentive to get people to use public transportation.

Many food colorings are added to food to make the more attractive, and many 
of those food colorings are made from petroleum. via: Hufingtonpost

However as oil prices rise, it is not only the gasoline we should worry about but also the availability of petroleum bi-products.

In our day-to-day lives oil is not limited to re-fueling our automobiles. From what we eat to cameras, to aspirin, to clothes, to refrigerators and makeup we probably use more products containing petroleum than those without.

The rising prices of oil reminds us how dependent we are on this limited resource.  And more importantly, as we see how easily the prices can sway, we are face-to-face with the startling reality that our dependency in no way takes into consideration of sustainability.

While oil prices remain uncertain, rethinking some of our daily habits and being more conscience and careful of our resources and what we use is a very good idea.

Carpooling to work, using environmentally-friendly products, vacation at near home locations and engaging in old-school entertainment such as board games and cards might be the next up-and-coming trends.

Below are just a few alternatives to an oil-dependent lifestyle -- choices that can help us transition to a more sustainable life.

photo via: Inhabitat

1. Samsung's Solar-Powered LCD Television.  Samsung unveiled a solar-powered zero energy LCD television. The screen is transparent and it's technology can be applied to digital window blinds and storefront displays. (via: Inhabitat)

photo via: NY Times
2. Monopoly Live. Hasbro recently announced a new version of their classic game Monopoly -- Monopoly Live.

Set for release later this fall, the game is intended to bring back the lost entertainment of digital-free, face-to-face interactive board games.

Aiming to lure the 8-12 year old bracket, the game has been simplified and adjusted to a more fast-paced speed, set to compete against the more popular on-line games. (via: NY Times)

photo via: Springwise

3. Wind-powered Machine Knit.  Wind power takes on a whole new level as London-based Dutch designer Merel Karhof's reveals his creation The Knitting Factory which harnesses wind to knit a continuous series of winter scarves.  A video on YouTube demonstrates the machine "in action".

photo via: Inhabitat

4. Chevrolet Volt.  General Motors announced it will double the production of the Chevrolet Volt -- their extended-range electric car.

The Volt has a hybrid gas-electric engine system providing a gas engine-extended range of 300 miles to prevent drivers from being stuck without a charge (other electric vehicles get about 100 miles per charge).

Earlier this month, Toyota also announced the "Toyota Global Vision" -- a plan to launch 10 more hybrid vehicles by 2015.

We truly do hope electric cars will soon be the norm rather than the alternative.

From last week's high of $107/barrel, this week's oil price is down to $98 -- the result of Japan's shaken economy.

In the last few days, we have directly experienced what we cannot predict and it's direct impact on our day-to-day lives.

And although it may be a frightening, there ARE changes we can make in our lives thereby contributing to easing the potential damage.  We can start by being more aware, doing our best to save what is left.

photo via: Good 

Today we end this post our thoughts turn to the nation and people of Japan -- in addition to those many others who suffer injustice, tragedy -- both man-made and natural.

We share Reuter's list of several trustworthy organizations -- those doing their best to provide aid to victims of the Japan's earthquake and tsunami. GOOD also has an updated list of how you can help -- whether its through money or other donations, time and energy, or coding skills, the opportunities are limitless.

It is in times like these we are reminded how we are all interconnected. Please also do not forget about the crisis in the Middle East. Violence in Libya has lead tens of thousands of people to flee the country and cross to neighboring borders. With hundreds dead and thousands injured, many non-profit organizations need our help. Please consider making a donation -- we can all make a difference.

March 14, 2011


Please read and  consider making a donation.

March 10, 2011

Fashion's Fresh Faces

From teenage fashion bloggers sitting front row of top runway shows to fresh-faced twenty-somethings straight out of design school producing the must-see shows, the forefront of New York fashion rests in the hands of a youthful generation. With unscathed creativity, passion, and the first to embrace technology and social media, the young dare to be bold and prove that age really is just a number.

Today, we highlight several of the leading young fashion designers, sharing their success stories and why they deserve to be on the look out. All with their own unique beginnings, each carry a distinct vision that has brought them to where they are today. Here are our top five picks, completely different in style, but united by their entrepreneur spirit and strong influence they bring in today's fashion.

photo via: WSJ
1. Jason Wu
Jason Wu became an overnight sensation when Michelle Obama danced the night away dressed in one of his gowns at the inaugural ball. That night, at the tender age of 26, Wu became an instant household name and his career skyrocketed into what many designers spend years dreaming to achieve. Today, two years later, Wu has expanded to a globally recognized empire of ready-to-wear, bridal, handbags, and shoes. On his way of building a global luxury brand, his name is carried in over 130 stores world-wide, and an opening of his first flagship store in New York City is one of the next things on his check list.

Recognized for opulence and an effortless elegance, Wu brings royal decadence to New York's traditional sportswear scene that is like no other. His latest fall/winter collection showcases more than 15 different types of lace, hand-worked Swarovski crystal beading, luxe sweatshirts, and show stopping floor-length ball gowns. In a very short period of time, Wu has proven to be far beyond just a go-to cocktail dress designer and has become a personal favorite to the social elite and Hollywood's most glamourous.

photo via: Fashionista

2. Vena Cava
Most business men would be hesitant to suggest friends or lovers becoming business partners. But we know in fashion, this could sometimes be a designer's best decision. We've all seen the success of Viktor & Rolf and Dolce & Gabbana so in some cases, like we said earlier, two really is better than one.

Both raised in California, Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock met in the west before both left for New York to attend the prestigious Parsons School of Design. At the end of their education, when their work wasn't selected for the Senior Thesis Show, instead of giving up, they decided to put together their own show three weeks later after graduation. From what began on their living room floor eight years ago, the design duo now sells their collections all throughout the world.

The two aren't afraid to take on additional projects on top of managing their own label. Stating that trying new things is key to keeping their business moving forward, Vena Cava has a long list of collaborations, including Gap, Via Spiga, Aqua for Bloomingdale's, and Converse. The next retailer in line is rumored to be Uniqlo.

photo via: StyleList

3. Alexander Wang
Building a name out of a wardrobe inspired by the "model-off-duty" look, Alexander Wang is a favorite, and probably a friend of, the coolest downtown it-girls. With an approximately $25 million business at a young age of 27, it's clear that Wang knows what women want. With his first flagship store recently launched in Soho, Wang is just getting started.

One of his strengths that really helped build his success is his strong relationship with his family. We all know the saying "blood is thicker than water," but that is truly the motto in Wang's fashion empire. His brother is the chief principal officer and his sister-in-law is the CEO. His mother also owns a manufacturing business in Shanghai. Former Barney's Creative Director Julie Gilhart quotes the family "really knew about production," an advantage Wang had over many other young designers. From the very beginning, his family was extremely supportive of his dream and encouraged him with all that they could offer.

photo via: BlackBook

Wang is often criticized as a designer who makes "affordable" or "wearable" clothes. And although some may see this as an insult, Wang doesn't seem to care as long as he knows that he's doing the right thing. His debut started just around when the economic downturn put a tight strap on everyone's wallets. And although this was a tough period for most, he saw this as an opportunity to redefined luxury in an economically unstable era. From his $74 t-shirts to $1,200 dresses, his goal is to make every woman a Wang Woman.

photo via: Ecouterre

4. Tara St. James
If grades were ever issued to fashion designers, Tara St. James deserves an A+. The recipient of the 2011 Ecco Domani Award for Sustainable Design, Tara St. James is the founder of the label Study NY, launched in September 2009. An inspiration to all, St. James integrates zero-waste pattern making, recycled textiles, organic fabrics, and collaborations with artisans all around the world to create fashion forward, thoughtful pieces. For her most recent collection, she collaborated with CPALI, a nonprofit that works to prevent deforestation in Madagascar, and Madres & Artesanas, a women's cooperative in Bolivia.

Unlike many designers, St. James is very open with her work and encourages young designers to go green. With her Study Hall program, interns work side by side the designer to develop and produce their own sustainable mini collections. Like an open book, St. James does not hold back in lending a hand.

photo via: Fashioner
5. Joseph Altuzarra
Joseph Altuzarra may be Parisian by birth, but he has the wit and cool of a true New Yorker. Although he's based in New York, Altuzarra spends almost an equal amount of time on the other side of the sea. Bringing the two worlds together, his sexy, body-con, sophisticated style has often been compared with the legendary Tom Ford. And with an impressive resume that includes work experience at Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, and Givenchy, Joseph Altuzarra put his time in both cities before launching his own name-sake label in 2009.

Although Altuzarra has the credentials to back his talent, the designer also gives credit to the Internet. He states, "You can build a brand very fast now, especially with bloggers and how fast images can get out -- the message just goes out faster and stronger than ever before." The designer, like many today, saw the wealth of information and communication freely available in the cyber world and took advantage of it. And while it means there are thousands of more designers trying to get noticed, instead of being blurred with the rest, Altuzarra proves that he is one worth noticing. 

March 1, 2011

March MBF Favorite Picks

Working in a fast-paced, in-and-out culture, we often forget how influential technology is in our day-to-day life. Even just within the last few years, technology has seamlessly integrated into the way we eat, shop, work, learn, and interact with one another. As most of us probably spend much of our time on the web, phone, or some other gadget, we dedicate this month's picks to a few powerful, technology-driven products and ideas that have and continue to shape our culture.

photo via: NYTimes
With a mission to catalog every song in the world, Shazam is the app of choice in discovering new music today. The popular music-spotting cellphone application has been around since 2002, and now attracts 100 million users, acquiring 3 million hits per day, and available in more than 200 countries. Shazam is one of many that has reshaped the way the music industry functions today.

photo via: Grubwithus
Grubwithus is a site that organizes group restaurant meals. The site works with select restaurants to arrange family-style meals for a fixed price during an approximately two hour slot. Participants sign up for a particular meal, with the intention of building friendship over food. Even if things may not work out, it's an adventurous (and delicious) way of meeting people! Currently, the site operates exclusively to Chicago, San Francisco, and New York City.

photo via: Springwise
In today's world, a university no longer needs a physical place, only a URL. University of the People is a non-profit enterprise, supported by the United Nations, bringing higher education to people who would not otherwise have access to it. Launched in September of 2009, the school received 3,000 applications and currently has on board 380 students in over 70 countries. Embracing the worldwide presence of the Internet and utilizing the advancements of technology, University of the People offers tuition-free university-level studies to people all across the world, representing a new wave in global education.

photo via: NY Times
3-D entertainment comes to Met Opera
After Avatar, most of us had our share of 3-D movies, and perhaps even 3-D TV. So it comes to no surprise that live theater is next in line to get "3-D'ed". The Metropolitan Opera plans to introduce 3-D projections for its production of "Siegfried" next season, the third installment in its new "Ring" cycle, directed by Robert Lepage. However, unlike the 3-D films and TV, glasses are not required. Digital artists, computer programmers, and lighting experts have come together to produce life-like imagery on stage. The images will appear to move and interact with the singers and actors on set. Whatever preconceived notions we might have about technology may be reconsidered as it is now today's new art form.

photo via: Hu2 Design
Who knew house decoration could function beyond, well, decor? The designers behind Hu2 Design go above and beyond the traditional boundaries of wall sticker design by creating beautiful, quirky home stickers that also function as eco-friendly reminders. Each product has a story to tell, and of course, the stickers are made from a PVC-free self-adhesive, free of chlorine and plasticizers. We are total believers of their motto: "Education through Decoration."

photo via: DKNY Times
Two weeks ago, Style Coalition partnered with TheFind to host the second annual Fashion 2.0 Awards at Soho's Trump Hotel. Over 300 brands were present and thousands watched the event as it was streamed live across the world via ICED Media. The event awarded the best innovators and users of technology and social media within the fashion and retail industry. Winners were nominated by a community of peers and fans. Amongst the all of the attendees, DKNY reigned victorious, winning Best Mobile App, Best Blog, and overall Top Innovator. 

photo via: Windowfarms
Technology may sound like the complete antithesis to nature, but Britta Riley's Windowfarms prove that the two can go side by side. The modular, vertical, drip-hydroponic systems repurpose landfill-bound 1.5 liter bottles to provide a low-cost solution to year-round indoor food production. For those living in cities like New York, this is a simple and convenient way to grow a garden right in your very own window. Windowfarms was included in My Life Scoop's top 5 green gadget gardening tools. Click here to read the rest who made the list!

photo via:
Trying to budget, save money, and keep a record of all our expenses is one of the last things we want to do after a long day of work. However, Mint lets you bring all your financial accounts together online, automatically categorizing your transactions and letting you set budgets to help you achieve your savings goals. Based on all of your information, the program will suggest ways on how you can save money or invest smarter. With over 5 million users, it's probably worth checking out!

photo via: Belkin
In today's culture, a mobile phone is a must-have. And for those of us living with roommates or with family, there are probably multiple mobile devices in your home, each requiring it's own unique charger. Since our phones need to be charged daily, and sometimes more than once per day, Belkin's Valet USB charging station saves you from the clutter of multiple chargers and lets you hold and charge up to four devices at once. Once fully charged, the device will automatically shut off to eliminate power drain. 

We know this is just a small hand full with what is out there today. So if you have any recommendations on things you can't live with out, we would love to hear from you! 
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