February 3, 2012

February MBF Picks: Berlin Fashion Week Roundup Part II

We are all looking for newness and innovation – as guarantors for a successful 2012.
At MBF we first referenced this change in the air in 2009 – today that change is our future – here’s what we think.

•   Eco-fashion will continue to gain momentum
•   There is too much product out there
•   Retailers and manufacturers will need to further adapt, incorporate consumer demands
•   We need to be smarter, more nimble, more socially responsible, more local, be purveyors of “slow” fashion

Today’s consumer is no longer inspired by the “shop, collection and merchandising” concepts present at POS. Department stores and retailers are competing to reach the consumer. The customer is not motivated to purchase  everything looks the same and there is a lack of “newness” or innovation.
The consumer wants to spend money, but they need to be enticed” said David Bassuk, managing director and head of AlixPartners’ global retail practice.

We all know the “who, what, why, where and when” … but what about “how”? HOW DO WE CHANGE things? Exciting, inspirational collections should be tailored to target customers. Brands should offer new, fresh store concepts – a-la Target.

video via youtube.com

Retailers should consider merchandising that not only illustrates an interesting assortment, but also tells a story that connects directly with their target audience. To stand out in the saturated market, you have to entice and excite your customer, draw them into our POS.

This brings us to our Part II of the Berlin Fashion Week Round-up.

Similar to the retail market, the tradeshow industry is also saturated. So we focused on what we deemed the best-of-the best.

We visited three new shows, Show and Order, The Gallery Berlin, and the Ethical Fashion Show. As always, we covered the BBB, Premium Exhibition, and the Green Showroom, including the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin.

What did we see? A wide array of 70s-inspired colours and hues – from sportier neon tones to bright and neutral shades. Layering, mixing variety of fabrications and fur … fur, fur everywhere. Denim has been cleaned up – in both bright and dark washes as well as coated with metallic sheens. Prints predominently are grid-like in design, retro inspired as well as navajo tribal inspired. Overall a more dressed-up approach, in new layers for fall. To purchase the full Berlin Trade show Report F/W 12/13, please contact us here.

With that, here are our February MBF favorite picks of outstanding designers spotted at the various Berlin Trade shows:

photo via Kuyichi

At the forefront of the sustainability movement and with a motto of "style with a soul" is Kuyichi, the first brand to produce organic jeans. Not only has the label taken over Europe but plans to expand into Dubai, China, and Canada this upcoming season. After seeing them at BBB, we learned of their new product line called the Salvage Project which takes their own products and reuses them a second time around. The project calls for customers to return old and used items to claim a discount while the design team based in Haarlem, Netherlands redesigns each genuine product by hand. Who says you can't have an authentic soul?

photo via Trippen

Not only can they walk the walk, but this shoe brand can definitely talk the talk. By combining modern design, environmental friendliness, sustainability, and social responsibility, the label designs based on the idea that "individual components can be exchanged and replaced." While reusing the same shapes and materials by merely applying fresh color schemes, Trippen shoes have a very distinct style. With a concept of not replacing collections from seasons passed, the ability to revamp their staple aesthetic is remarkable as each shoe is moderately updated to give it a new look.

Kaschuba Hommage
Founded by designer, Irina Kashuba, the label seeks to unify luxury with sustainability. Each handcrafted accessory ranging from scarves to collars, capes, and ponchos are characterized by the ability to be worn in two different ways, making most pieces reversible. By combining unusual patterns and materials with ethnic influences from across the globe, the jewelry and accessory line takes style to a new level of versatility.

photo via Canada Goose

Canada Goose
The Canadian extreme outerwear label, Canada Goose is not only one of the top manufacturers of functional, innovative and stylish products, but has released a new collection for 2012 called Branta. This collection of jackets and accessories, specifically targeted to city dwellers is a homage to the Canadian Goose. Among promoting authenticity and supporting made in Canada goods, the label has recently collaborated with Japanese designer Yuki Matsuda to produce a heritage inspired collection that incorporates traditional fabrics like tweed and corduroy into outerwear.

photo via Trigema CHANGE

Trigema CHANGE
Trigema CHANGE is a new lifestyle collection from the family owned company, Trigema. Waste not, because this basics line is the first cradle to cradle certified fashion collection in the world as all products can be returned to the ecosystem at the end of their life cycle in the form of nutrients for new plants. In addition, the line combines the past with the future by drawing inspiration from current trends as well as from original Trigema models from the 60's and the 70's.

video via youtube.com

Berlin meets Beijing and we had the opportunity to see it for ourselves as Beautyberry presented its Fall/Winter 2012 Collection. With clean lines, modern fabrications, and  futuristic elements, Wang Yutao is the first mainland Chinese designer to show at Berlin Fashion Week. As a designer, Wang seeks to capture "simplicity, nature and peace" while simultaneously giving the world a new perspective on Chinese fashion.

The brands we have featured seem to have understood how to meet the challenge head-on and are actively implementing new ideas and concepts. And we believe that once we – as a community – are able to find answers, we will move past the uncertainty, the ambiguous nature of our ever-changing world.
And while some things CAN be predicted, others cannot.
Still, we CAN think smarter, take risks and believe in the unimaginable – a brave new world.


  1. Thanks for sharing. I totally agree. What are we doing to make the shoppers excited?

  2. I've been following TrendTalk for some time. You have been speaking about this for a long time. I look forward to a dialogue with your readers about ideas they have for making a change. Our consumer is looking to us to lead the way.


  4. We'll be there with our dogs -- thank you Target.

  5. LOVE THE SUSTAINABLE DESIGNER SELECTS SPECIALLY Kaschuba Hommage & Canada Goose (what about the vodka?). Great stuff, thank you.

  6. Nos encanta estos disenadores!


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