MBF Profiles: Danielle Meder

We first mentioned Danielle Meder two weeks ago during our Fashion Week Roundup and were so impressed by her visionary illustrations that we had to know more. With fashion week just over yesterday, we thought it'd be the perfect time to catch up with the famed live sketch artist and find out how she got in the business and what medium she plans on working with next.

photo via Danielle Meder

MBF Trend Consulting: Please tell us a bit about your background. How did you become an illustrator and specialist in designing paper dolls?

Danielle Meder: I was homeschooled when I was a kid so I had a lot of time on my hands. We grew up in a log home near a very small town, and my first contact with the idea of fashion was through history books I got at the library. I started drawing paper dolls inspired by the history of costume when I was just a kid. When it came time for me to attend university, I chose an applied program in fashion design so I would be able to learn the technical aspects of pattern drafting and sewing.

MBF: You are calling yourself a Trend Theorist. What are the thoughts behind being a Trend Theorist?

DM: I’ve been fashion blogging for quite a while, writing about ideas and sharing my drawings. However, once fashion blogging became a trendy thing around 2008, I found that the assumptions people made about being a “fashion blogger” no longer accurately reflected what I was doing. So I invented a new title for myself, and that is “trend theorist." It’s not totally clear what a “trend theorist” is, which means I get to define it for myself.

photo via Danielle Meder

MBF: You have covered quite a few amazing designers at the NY RTW Fall 2014 shows – which ones where the most exciting? How did you get invited to the shows? Had you done previous work with the designers or someone on their team?

DM: Thank you! This season I was most excited to sketch Son Jung Wan, Yigal Azrouel and Skingraft. I was given access to these events by sending a request to the designers’ PR contacts a few weeks before.

MBF: When did you start sketching at live events? How has it changed/evolved over the last couple of years?

DM: I’ve been sketching at runway shows since 2006. It used to be very rare to see people sketching at the shows – but in 2013 there was a very identifiable uptick of artists at fashion shows – from young students to more venerable illustrators like Bil Donovan.

MBF: When sketching fast passing models how do you capture the essence of the look in seconds? Also how do you quickly determine whether to use the Ipad Paper app or watercolor?

DM: I decide on what medium I am using before the show starts. Once I am sketching while the show is on, I don’t have time to think too much about anything – live runway sketching at its best is spontaneous and intuitive.

photo via Danielle Meder

MBF: You have worked with a variety of clients – what project enticed you the most?

DM: My two favourite projects were collaborating with FiftyThree on live sketching New York Fashion Week on the iPad for Women’s Wear Daily, and a series of magnetic paper dolls I produced for The Cut.

MBF: In your opinion, why is live sketching becoming an emerging trend? Was it ever this popular before?

DM: I think the current trend for live sketching is a reaction to the ubiquity of photography. People are interested in alternate ways of recording events that have a more human touch.

MBF: What are the biggest challenges you encounter when working with clients and how do you overcome them to take your career forward?

DM: Certainly the challenge that I’m most concerned with is avoiding running with packs of other young people doing the same thing I’m doing. Being independent is both a curse and a blessing; I have absolute freedom within the confines of my circumstances. Transcending my station in life using whatever limited resources I have available is the locked door I am picking at, every single day.

photo via Danielle Meder

MBF: What does the future hold for you? What is your favorite medium now and what do you see as the next medium you might use?

DM: I am more interested in content than medium – so fashion itself interests me far more than illustration as a practice or whatever pencils and paper I happen to be using. I see my future expanding beyond illustration, as I’m becoming more interested in returning to my training as a designer and working with physical materials.

MBF: Who are the people that inspire you most? Do you follow other illustrators or blogs to get ideas?

DM: I avoid following other illustrators as it’s very important for illustrators to be different from one another – I don’t need the existential angst of comparing my career to others, and I don’t want to risk having my style unintentionally influenced by other illustrators. As such, I tend to study the work of dead illustrators more closely (especially Joe Eula and Kenneth Paul Block) and keep glancing sideways to maintain an awareness of the careers of my peers.

I am very inspired by writers, and I have a lot of friends who are writers. I find a certain kinship with the way that they think and work. Whenever I talk with my friends who are writers, I walk away with a million ideas.

photo via Danielle Meder

MBF: Our MBF Profiles ends with a questionnaire that follows in the footsteps of Proust's Questionnaire and American TV show host James Lipton's "10 Questions."

MBF: Your favorite swear word?

DM: “Fuck.”

MBF: Your least favorite word?

DM: “Should.”

MBF: Your favorite word?

DM: “Freedom.”

MBF: What turns you on?

DM: Blue collars.

MBF: And of course, what turns you off?

DM: Academics.

MBF: What sound do you love?

DM: Industrial steam irons.

MBF: If you could pick any profession – what might you be?

DM: My own. But if I had to choose another, I think I’d like to work in a greenhouse. I like tending to plants and I enjoy warm places.

MBF: If you could be anywhere right now, where would you be?

DM: Paris…missing another PFW at the moment.

MBF: If Heaven exists, what would you like to hear God say when you arrive at the Pearly Gates?

DM: “…”

At Your Convenience

Despite so much saturation in the marketplace, there are a few brands doing things differently by acting as a disrupter and defying the norm. Rather than doing the same old thing, these are the fearless, the risk takers, and the innovative, who take radical ideas and tailor them to reality. Companies like Zappos with their new self-governing structure and Amazon's mobile warehouse robots, are just a few of the businesses challenging the current industry.

photo via USA Today

Pop-up retail shops and restaurants really aren't anything new but they are becoming more and more common in airports as of late. Not only do they offer a chance to test out new brands and concepts, but they provide relevant merchandise and speciality gifts that coincide with the season. Just last October JetBlue hosted a three day Farmers Market at JFK and as we mentioned previously the ethically-minded website Zady set up a temporary shop at LaGuardia for the holidays.

photo via Business of Fashion

While most offline companies are moving online, Net-a-Porter is doing things a bit backwards. The e-tailer which deems itself as less of a retailer and more like a media company, feels it is missing the most basic component, a print magazine. With such a global following, the magazine called Porter, will be distributed in 60 countries and is giving Net-a-Porter a chance to partner with brands that have been apprehensive about selling their products to them, like Chanel and Dior. Their debut issue which will contain 65% editorial content will not only drive traffic to their e-commerce site, but also to those of its advertisers as well. By taking this omni-channeling approach, the company hopes to expand their audience and generate advertising revenue in the process.

photo via Mashable

Sure we have the luxury of shopping at the click of a finger anywhere, anytime but living the busy lives that we do, how do we avoid all those pesky missed delivery notifications? Now with the new delivery service Parcel, New Yorkers can shop online with ease and receive packages at a time that is most convenient for them. Basically, Parcel gives you a unique address to one of their facilities which you enter as the shipping destination for your purchases. Once they receive your package, you are notified via text to schedule a delivery anywhere between the hours of 7pm and 11pm for just $5 a package.

photo via springwise.com

There's even an app that can make all your tickets go away. Fixed enables you to take a photo of your tickets, upload them on the app, and have them challenged in court by a team of experts. If you win, you pay the team 25% of your ticket and if not, well you're stuck paying the fine but what do you really have to lose? Unfortunately, it's only available in San Francisco right now but hopefully will be expanding to a city near you soon.

The keyword here seems to be convenience and what's more accommodating than ordering Taco Bell via text? While that may take until the end of the year, one thing is for sure it's all about learning to adapt to change and evolving with it. We are mobile users that are constantly on the go so we look to things that are user friendly and make our lives a little bit easier in the long run.

Today we'd like to leave you with some of the top names to keep in mind for the rest of the year so please check out Fast Company's list of "The World's Most Innovative Companies in 2014."

Off-Site On Trend: Part II

This year we attended two leading independent designer showcases held during NYFW that help a new array of global talent break into the industry. Held by RUSK, Nolcha Fashion Week was presented on Pier 59 with more than 30 designers in womenswear, menswear, and accessories exhibiting. 

photo via Katty Xiomara

A combination of sophistication, femininity, and an eye for fabrics has led to the evolution of Katty Xiomara. With Portuguese decent and a love for the nostalgic, she has created a poetic and idyllic character for the modern woman's wardrobe. Her latest collection was inspired by the popular Sunday comic, Peanuts. Through the usage of graphic details and free hand drawings, she evokes the personalities of Snoopy, Charlie Brown, and the like, to transform us to the fun days of our youth.

photo via Jessica Frankl

As we mentioned last week, we also attended Launch NY to see the Bow & Drape x Paper Fashion collection. Bow & Drape is a label dedicated to building confidence among women through their personalized approach to clothing. The brand channels your inner Molly Ringwald meets Judd Nelson and is all about creating feminine pieces that radiate a bit of attitude. Their collaboration Watercolor Artist Katie Rodgers of Paper Fashion created two custom prints, a spatial floral and a lipstick conversation print.

photo via Danielle Meder

Not only have we seen such a surge in new emerging talent but there has also been a fresh update to the audience as well. What once was limited to only the most prestigious editors and buyers has evolved to a guest list of "it" girls, celebrities, and bloggers. The most recent shows have even come to include everything from streetwear photographers to illustrators to gif artists like the bloggers Tumblr sent to fashion week or the infamous Live Runway Visionaire Danielle Meder. 

Off-Site On Trend: Part I

Since IMG announced plans to reinvent the structure of NY Fashion Week's main venue Lincoln Center, the bi-annual event has been criticized for being too “tradeshow like” causing many designers to move off-site. This has sparked more innovative platforms like that of Manufacture NY, an eight day fashion week that combines runway with retail situated down on West 17th Street.

With an audience and exhibitor list full of the young, cool and inventive, the relaxing atmosphere of Launch NY was a great break from the usual frenzied tents. The independent designer focused event acquainted the industry with a plethora of emerging multi-talented artists and visionaries. Not to mention, the space was cleverly attached to a retail store selling a few of the featured designers' merchandise.

photo via Udor Photography

Here we were introduced to Mimi New York, a collection of unique pieces that combines antique fabrics of lightweight lace, fringe, and other hanging details to give each garment a one of a kind look. By mixing various lace colors and proportions, designer Mimi's artistic eye creates high-end, handmade, and sustainable clothing.

photo via Udor Photography

Born and bred by Bulgarian designer Milena Encheva, Minnoji is a New York based womenswear label that creates sophisticated clothing that can be worn from day to night but with a dark, romantic twist. Her most recent Fall collection had a unisex appeal with its heavily androgynous theme, which she believes is the future of fashion.

photo via TUR Photography

By adapting her training in apparel design and applying it to working with metal, Pratt Art Institute graduate, Laureluxe was able to pursue her ultimate passion for jewelry design. Some may say her work references Egyptian and Persian cultures but either way, her handmade pieces are truly creative wearable art.

photo via Simply Natural

Inspired by a love for animals, nature, and a Made In The USA mentality, Simply Natural is a line of denim developed from natural dyes grown in the northern US. By hosting a trunk show at Manufacture NY's new retail component, this farm to consumer concept showcased their completely cruelty-free alpaca fleece that is sheered directly from the animal before spun into yarn, designed, and made into apparel.

Stay tuned for Part II of our NYFW chronicles...

Fit For Good

Technology has enabled custom made clothing to finally reach the mass market. It's tough enough getting something properly tailored let alone buying something straight off the rack at a department store. Therefore, many shoppers completely skip both scenarios and head straight to the web to find custom made pieces that are more convenient for their lifestyles. Due to this growing demand, a string of new brands has emerged as an antidote to fast fashion and to give the industry a fresh perspective on fit and size, particularly in the menswear sector.

photo via NY Times

Between regular fits and big & tall sizes, one would think you should fit somewhere in between, but what about those of a smaller build? Meet Peter Manning, a line of classic American Sportswear made for guys 5-foot-8 and under and of a thinner physique. Along with this, other similar brands like Jaden Lam and Willis & Walker have popped up to cater to this niche market as well.

video via Ori Jeans

We all can agree that the one item that is the most frustrating to shop is without a doubt jeans. While it may sound unreal, that's where Ori Jeans comes in with their $99 handcrafted jeans. Made with selvedge denim from the US and Japanese mills, this Kickstarter campaign will start taking orders sometime this month and once it's up and running, you'll be able to select a specific cut, color, fabric, and even such details as stitching and distressing.

photo via Appalatch

Based in Asheville NC, Appalatch is an ethically minded, American made, and quality driven outdoor apparel company that seeks to prolong the lifeline of what we wear. Their custom sweaters are 3D printed in under an hour with no waste and cost around $109.

video via MyOwnShirts

MyOwnShirts is like a virtual design mecca for shirts. With the click of a button you can enter your measurements, choose your fit and design preferences, and voila! Your shirt is cut, sewn, and delivered to your door.

photo via Indochino

One of the most well known of these companies and first of its kind is Indochino, an online made-to-order suit retailer where you choose a style, add customizations and then follow their step by step measuring guides to create a look completely your own. They even have pop up tailor shops in major cities across the US and are so dedicated to creating the perfect fit that if your suit arrives and isn't right, they will even go as far as covering additional alteration expenses, remaking it free of cost, or accepting a return with full refund. Today, Indochino has served more than 120,000 customers in over 130 countries and continues to go global.

photo via fashionista.com

Womenswear label Bow & Drape is a NY fashion tech startup who not only does customized unique statement pieces but as of late has been experimenting with 3D printing for its new accessory line. Stay tuned next week as we talk about the NYFW presentation Bow & Drape x Paper Fashion at Launch NY.

MBF Profiles: Rohan Deuskar

If you've ever imagined having your entire wardrobe laid out in front of you then maybe a digital closet is just what you've been missing. This is where Stylitics comes in to help you plan, share, get advice, and even receive recommendations on what to wear. Basically, it's a way to dress smarter and have all your clothes in one place so you can assess what you are wearing and how much. Sure, there may be other apps out there that are similar, but not one appeals to both consumers and retailers. That's why today we'd like to introduce you to Rohan Deuskar, CEO and Co-Founder of this closet platform that combines social, virtual, and insightful aspects to your everyday style.

MBF: Please tell us a bit about your background. How did your digital closet concept come about? What are the thoughts behind it?

Rohan Deuskar: I grew up in India, but have lived in the Middle East, Africa, Chicago, Philadelphia and briefly Seattle as well. I came to the U.S. for undergrad at Northwestern University when I was 18. After school I helped grow a mobile marketing company from 5 to about 100 people over 5 years. After that, I went to the Wharton School of Business for my MBA. It was during that time that the idea for Stylitics came together.

photo via Stylitics

Stylitics is the confluence of my personal need as a consumer and a major need in the fashion industry.
Stylitics was born from my frustration that although like most people I was spending a decent amount of money and time on buying clothes and deciding what to wear, my closet was still one of the most inefficient parts of my life. I’d wear only 20% of my stuff, I’d forget what I owned, and I’d buy duplicates of clothes I already owned. It struck me that the closet was one of those central experiences in people’s lives that is still completely analog and tied to one physical location. I realized that if you had a digital version of your closet – essentially all your clothing data in one place online – then you could unlock an amazing set of new capabilities. Imagine putting together packing lists on the go, or tracking stats like cost per wear of each item, or getting online outfit advice from your friend or a digital stylist.

And not only would consumers be better off, but with the user’s permission brands and retailers could see what people are wearing and buying in real-time, for the first time. That means better and more personal recommendations, more targeted offers, and better insights.

MBF: How can retailers and consumers who upload their closet profit from Stylitics?

Rohan Deuskar: Stylitics was designed as the essential toolkit for decision-makers in the fashion industry – sort of a Bloomberg terminal for fashion. People working to drive the business of fashion, whether through merchandising or marketing or other roles, are asked to make business critical decisions with very little useful information. Our insights platform gives these decision-makers a real-time view into where else their customers are shopping, what they are buying, and how they are styling it. This information has never been available at scale, even with expensive surveys and focus groups. It is saving businesses thousands of dollars and dozens of hours each month and helping to improve conversion and sales across a number of categories.

photo via Stylitics

MBF: Who are your competitors? Do you know of any other companies using a type of application like this?

Rohan Deuskar: Our data comes from our large panel of tens of thousands of consumers who share their purchases and outfits on our platform. There are other “digital closets” out there, but Stylitics is both the market leader as well as the only one designed to provide insights to both consumers and retailers. Our biggest hurdle is simply market education. Retailers and brands still think that surveys and focus groups are the only way to understand customers and their preferences. It’s taken a while to demonstrate the value of real-time data, for a fraction of the price.

MBF: You want Stylitics to be the new normal in the near future? How do you envision this happening?

Rohan Deuskar: Less than a decade ago, most people would have laughed at the idea that Americans would spend hundreds of millions of dollars each year buying shoes, dresses, and even diamond rings online. Connecting the store to the power and reach of web and mobile has unlocked a huge number of benefits for both consumers and businesses. Similarly, the closet is decision-central. It is the heart of the purchase decision and the consumer’s style and preferences. Connecting the closet to web and mobile – as Stylitics has done – is unlocking a whole new world of benefits – better recommendations and offers, digital stylists, outfit advice from friends online, and much more.

Over 100,000 people have hosted their clothing purchases and closets on Stylitics and we hope to cross 1M by this time next year. So far, the process of building your closet involves selecting from our catalog of 30M items or taking your own product photos. Starting in mid 2014, consumers will be able to download their purchases from dozens of top retailers instantly – which will really drive adoption. Retailers are behind this and consumer want it. We believe that in 5 years, digital closets will be as common as Facebook profiles!

photo via Stylitics

MBF: Initially Stylitics was launched as a digital closet only. What are the product developments over the last 3 years integrating data and data analytics? Please give us an example.

Rohan Deuskar: Actually, Stylitics has always been designed to drive analytics as well. It’s right in the name – Style + Analytics.

From day 1, we have believed that the data in the closet can help consumers shop better and dress better, but also can help retailers and brands design and market better to their consumers. We are part of a generation of companies that are using consumer data to provide new experiences for users and new capabilities for marketers. Others include Mint, Fitbit, Runkeeper, and other data-driven lifestyle platforms.

MBF: What was most successful marketing tool for you in retrospect?

Rohan Deuskar: We have done a number of marketing promotions, from partnerships with the CFDA to promotions on over 50 campuses. Frankly, the most successful tool has been word of mouth. Over 80,000 people have joined Stylitics after being referred by a friend.

We don’t think that the best users come from social media. During one week in 2012, Kim Kardashian, Nicole Richie, and a number of other celebrities and designers tweeted about Stylitics – to a combined 35M people. To our surprise, that drove only a few thousand signups, about what we get in a good week with no marketing.

photo via Stylitics

MBF: What does the future hold? Can you talk about your new developments?

Rohan Deuskar: On the consumer side, the priority for the year is to make it seamless and instantaneous to download your purchases instantly. On top of that, we are launching offers, recommendations, stylist services, and a number of other consumer benefits. And the app will remain free!

On the analytics side, I believe we can have 50 of the top 100 retailers using our insights dashboard by the end of the year. Our new analytics dashboard was designed in conjunction with some of the world’s leading brands. We think it can have a major impact on sales in 2014.

MBF: What is the biggest challenge you encounter to take the company forward?

Rohan Deuskar: At the moment, it is market education. There is a lot of inertia in the fashion industry. A lot of companies still believe they know their customers, when actually what they know is the 5-10% of purchases they are buying from that specific retailer. It will take us a while to get the market to buy into the idea that they can perform better by getting the full view of the market – in a sense, the customer’s entire closet and shopping bag.

That said, the change is happening a few retailers and brands at a time. The marketplace has too many new entrants and too much change for companies to claim for much longer that they don’t need better customer data. Luckily, the cost of good data and good analytics has come down. For example, our customer insights platform costs the same for a year as one traditional customer survey!

MBF: Do you see a growing engagement for men in the future?

Rohan Deuskar: Definitely. We already have a few thousand men on our platform, but that will increase as we make it much easier to build your closet. It’s a cliché, but most men are looking for practical advice on how to upgrade their style, without having to follow the latest trends. If we do a good job with personalized recommendations and stylists, I think we can make a big impact for men.

photo via Stylitics

MBF: What would you say your biggest accomplishment has been thus far?

Rohan Deuskar: Until very recently, our new iPhone app was the #1 free fashion app in the App Store. That’s pretty amazing since a) this is very obviously an analytics and organization tool and b) we spent no money on marketing the app. It tells us that consumers are willing to share their data if you are transparent with them and give them value in return. We consider this a major accomplishment – ahead of sales or building our ambassador program or winning awards – because it has proved that the consumer is willing to be a part of the personalization and marketing effort, if you give them enough benefit. This has big implications for the future of retail!

MBF: Our MBF Profiles ends with a questionnaire that follows in the footsteps of Proust's Questionnaire and American TV show host James Lipton's "10 Questions."

MBF: Your favorite swear word?

Rohan Deuskar: Damnit!

MBF: Your least favorite word?

Rohan Deuskar: “Whatever.” Can’t stand apathy.

MBF: Your favorite word?

Rohan Deuskar: “Goodnight.” Sleep is precious.

MBF: What turns you on?

Rohan Deuskar: That exciting moment when you realize you are onto something big and it is about to hit you.

MBF: And of course, what turns you off?

Rohan Deuskar: Drama. Can’t watch it. Can’t live it. There are better things to do.

MBF: What sound do you love?

Rohan Deuskar: An Indian Sitar.

MBF: If you could pick any profession – what might you be?

Rohan Deuskar: Other than my own, perhaps a movie director or a short story writer.

MBF: If you could be anywhere right now, where would you be?

Rohan Deuskar: On an episode of ‘Whose Line is It Anyway’ in the 1990s.

MBF: If Heaven exists, what would you like to hear God say when you arrive at the Pearly Gates?

Rohan Deuskar: “I like your work.”

NY Tradeshow Roundup Spring/Summer 2015

Despite the winter storms and dropping temperatures, we made it to all the apparel fabric tradeshows here in NY. This year we did not only confirm the seasonal colours and fabric trends but we sought after the most innovative fabrics that meet our demand for comfort in our ever evolving lifestyles.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Premier Vision NY and Indigo are the first to open up each season for fabric trade shows worldwide, which gives us a great advantage point. This Spring Summer ‘15 show offered a broad selection of exhibitors showcasing their latest designs and styles to a large customer base which generated a steady flow of attendees.

The most predominant colours were shades of blue tones including everything from indigo, cobalt, and mint to light blue with a continuation into greens of sea foam, teal, and moss. Yellow ranged from citrus to soft pastel shades to a warm mimosa yellow. Candy colours continued to be strong in pale and muted tones along with natural colours which all enhances the brights.

Femininity rules in transparent fabrics, delicate constructed laces, eyelet, tulles and webbed like elements, sheers, transparency effects, sheens, sparkles, pearlescent sheens across knits and wovens. In prints we saw tribal, flowers from dense to open designs, watercolour influences, tropicals, fresh vertical stripes (mostly in knits), textured fabrics in either graphic, linear or circular patterns, and mostly tone on tones to offset the feminine mood. Sportswear fabrics were key in neoprene, nylons, scuba materials, mesh, imprinted, and embossed.

Our picks for the most innovative exhibitors are:

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Based in Japan, Mitsubishi Rayon Group is the sole manufacturer of tri-acetate fibre Soalon ™ which provides water absorbency, quick dry, and lightweight properties to womenswear. With these fibres, garments can be machine washed on gentle cycle and ironed. So far such well known brands like Balenciaga, Lanvin, Haute Hippe, DVF, Tori Burch, Tara Jarmon, Miu Miu, Max Mara, and Banana Republic are already working with Soalon.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Established in Istanbul in 1970 with a mere two weaving looms, Ozdoku has significantly grown to specialize in structured wovens and performance fabrics like double faced cotton, poly-blends, stretch and satin finishes. These properties create a nice, comfortable hand which has been purchased by companies like Club Monaco, Express, Chicos, and White House Black Market in the past.

photo via Prints of Orange

At Indigo we would like to mention an outstanding company that we came across called Prints of Orange. This textile design studio is based in Connecticut and represents numerous designers from around the globe that delivers a range of original and trend driven designs for the fashion, home furnishings, accessories and paper goods industries.

From paint splatters, smudges, butterflies, and watercolor themes in light pastels to geometric hand printed florals in white, blue, or black, the designs from Prints of Orange all reflected a shift towards artistic, abstract notions. Digital influences continued by altering hand painted prints and realistic knitwear designs. Overall, lines were super fine and mirrored effects, specifically in embroidered prints stood out. However, the most popular prints were contrasted against white backgrounds.

Next on our trade show circuit was of course the most innovative denim and sportswear fabric show, The Kingpins Show. While Kingpins continues to expand globally by adding Amsterdam to its roster in May, the show has maintained its neighborly, intimate setting that we've all grown to love. 

The Kingpins tradeshow was held in a great space called the Tunnel and despite a major snowstorm, the show was absolutely packed. The interior was made up of brick walls and unlike past seasons, the whole exhibition was on one floor. We loved the presentation in the entrance where various denim pieces were on display. This year, the invite-only Kingpins show celebrated 9.5 years and the exhibitors and buyers were just as excited to be a part of it as ever.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

At Invista, we discussed the importance of merging activewear and fashion. Pioneers like Nike and Adidas are now integrating technical qualities into denim to give it more diverse value. This performance denim now has Thermolite ® to keep the wearer dry and warm during cold weather, Coolmax ® to keep you cool and dry,  and Toughmax ™ which withstands the rigor of every day active life in a normal weight. And, by adding Lycra, it creates extra comfort.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

While visiting Cotton Inc, we were walked through their various products, one we would like to mention specifically called storm denim.  This new innovation combines performance with design in a woven fabric and also offers breathable water repellent protection. 

We also had an interesting conversation with Armin Sachathrep, Director of AMC, who along with Viresh Varma from ADL/Arvind confirmed that Coolmax is not yet perfected like its counterpart heat tech. Coolmax still has too much of a polyester feeling. According to Varma, a lot of customers are showing interest in this performance technology in denim but since the hand is not very soft yet buyers really aren't going for it.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Kurabo Denim carries premium denim from Japan and offers performance denim that creates warmth called Thermal (81% Cotton, 11% Acrylic, 7%Cupra, 1% Spandex). For cold fibers, they use Xylithol a natural chemical, used in chewing gum. With a mill in China and a spinning mill in Thailand, they are able to provide premium denim at a more competitive price point.

Our final stop was Texworld where exhibitors were extremely happy to see a steady flow of buyers especially since the weather was much less harsh on the second day! Overall, the trade shows this week were much slower than usual due to the polar vortex conditions.

Of course we headed to the trend forum first. The set up was very well done and the fabrics were organized by color schemes, which was very refreshing. The themes for each trend were well illustrated and created an easily read story. Pretty much all of what we saw overlapped with PV and further confirmed our S/S 2015 predictions.

photo via Tradegood

As the match-making partner of Texworld USA, Tradegood, is a B2B sourcing community that connects responsible buyers with trusted suppliers from around the world and works to facilitate the buyer's experience. At the show, all participants could partake in the complimentary service by filling out an application during the registration process and once the application is received, Tradegood finds suitable suppliers onsite that complement the buyers' specifications.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

With a drastic increase in fashion performance functionality in the last 4 years, Hyperbola is committed to outdoor, fashion, and casual fabrics. Their 3D embossed foam fabric is doing really well in the activewear arena because it's all about combining fashion and function to address the unpredictable weather patterns. The performance fabrics they carry are: Anti-bacteria, Anti-UV temperature changing fabrics, really new technical materials that change colours according to heat. For instance, in cold climates, fabrics turn into a grey metallic foil material to protect heat.

 photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Toray is a manufacturer and fabrics sourcing company that has seen athletic wear cross over to fashion apparel and the other way around. Printing on nylon has become a fast growing trend that is becoming very popular for down jackets as well as microfiber products that are soft and lightweight.

From the most technical, high performance fabric qualities to abstract, watercolor inspired prints, and blue hues from dark to light, we are seeing more of a balance between high fashion and activewear influences. Our lives are more demanding than ever and with that, grows a need for fabrications that are durable, weather adapting, and of course, comfortable. 

American Beauty

We have been following the Made in the USA movement since early 2012 and this year, it's beginning to really reach its peak. Due to the recent tragedies in Bangladesh, Cambodia, and Haiti, larger more established companies are linking up with new and innovative ones who are specifically geared towards a Made in America mentality.

video via Manufacture NY

One of our favorite organizations, Manufacture NY has collaborated with Texworld USA to connect independent designers with exhibitors who offer smaller minimums, eco-friendly textiles, and domestic sourcing. Manufacture NY's mission is to "reawaken and rebuild" the fashion industry by fostering the next wave of creative talent all while remaining transparent and sustainable. Their headquarters are based right in the Garment District and furnished with sampling rooms, classrooms, conference rooms, fitting rooms, computer stations, and already in use by over dozens of local designers and members. According to the founder Bob Bland, "The fashion loving public is embracing Made in the USA and it has become a major selling point." They have already started promoting for Fashion Week as they partner with retailer Adorama who specializes in photo shoot equipment rentals, to produce a state-of-the-art runway experience.

video via Ecouterre

Most recently we attended the event, Made in the USA Founder Forum 2014, organized by Manufacture NY that hosted a panel of experts including the co-founders of Maker's Row. This online marketplace introduces American manufacturers to businesses and has literally broken down transparency into a 6 step process, from sketch to production. And now, they are taking it to the schools to help emerging designers understand the know-how of manufacturing so they will have the choice to either work for Fortune 500 companies or build their own brands. Not to mention, they have teamed up with Cotton Inc to gain more insight about cotton growth as well as to connect textile firms with US cotton growers.

photo via Sourcing Journal Online

As this enthusiasm for Made in America continues to gain popularity across the US and consumers make it clear that there is a demand, retailers like Brooks Brothers and Walmart are finally seeing the value in promoting locally made products. With that said, the advantages are pretty obvious – lower shipping costs and weather adaptable production – which is why, preserving the Garment District has become such a powerful cause. Ralph Lauren is just one of the major fashion houses supporting NY garment manufacturers by contributing to the Fashion Manufacturing Initiative, a partnership between the CFDA and Andrew Rosen to help grow and sustain existing factories within the five boroughs.

photo via Made In NYC

Since NYC is home to almost 7,000 small factories, producing everything from pianos to fashion to food, printing, and furnishings, there's also Made In NYC, a project of the Pratt Center for Community Development. This organization not only caters to manufacturers but also consumers who can shop local products, learn about emerging designers, promote sustainability, and even create jobs. In the end, for any city to be fully sustainable, local manufacturing is a crucial component and with so many bustling industries, NYC has an undeniable potential to live up to.

photo via fashionista.com

Nanette Lepore, who is a major advocate for saving the Garment District is just one of the many designers committed to the diversity and craftsmanship sitting right here in midtown. Most recently, she's caught the eye of new Mayor, Bill de Blasio by dressing his wife, Chirlane McCray and daughter at his NYC inauguration. In a statement made by McCray, "Chiara and I are proud to be wearing this beautiful clothing today, that was made right here in New York City. This city needs more creative entrepreneurs like Nanette Lepore who are committed to keeping our city's garment industry thriving."

video via Flint and Tinder

Flint and Tinder, who just launched a new shirt and slack line called "Perfect Flannel," is another US made brand you need to know about. If that's not enough to win you over, all their products have a 100% quality guarantee, including their 10-year hoodie and locally made men's underwear line.

Even the shoe pioneer New Balance is on a crusade to produce the first fully American made sneaker. While about a quarter of their shoes are already labeled "Made in the USA," they still contain components made overseas so let the challenge begin!

Whether you've already jumped on the Made in the US bandwagon or not, there are a ton of brands made right here that you may not even realize, and this is just the start. 

Thinking Forward to S/S 2015

Spring/Summer 2015 represents the season of forward thinking. So progressive in fact that it has taken many of the tried and true trends from last Fall and reinterpreted them into a lighter, more minimal aesthetic. The industry is finally learning to evolve with the current pace of the world, from technology to globalization to consumer behavior. Now that we know what works, we can really focus on developing design and functionality to make what we wear the best it can be. This by no means suggests a stop to experimentation but instead we've become interested in advancing fabrication standards, fit customizations, and of course, the overall construction and appeal of what we are wearing.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Liquid fabrics, bare midriffs, tons of transparency, and a renewed 90's minimalism really set the ambience for the latest Fashion Week extravaganza. While florals and tribal references definitely ruled the runway, athletic influences are modernized by cool approach to layering and tennis inspired uniforms. Despite all the cropped tops, things remain modest with classic menswear tailoring in soft feminine fabrications. From an airy elegance to a strong desire for nonconformity, punk rock inspired glamour lives on in fluid fabrics and iridescent tones. grunge and punk continue as does the new age gypsy but both taking casual to eclectic. Pants are wider and looser with even culottes making a comeback. Abstract marble swirls, bold tropical florals, brand logos and sayings, and an artistic movement from the street to the gallery lead print directions. Details like sequins, fringe, feathers, and crystals revamp the ordinary.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

If Orchid is the color of 2014, it is without a doubt that blue will reign next year as purples and greys get watery accents. From cobalts to mint, turquoise, navy, indigo, and sky blue, this the most predominant colour direction for the S/S 2015 season. Not to mention, reds get pinker, candy colours brighter, brights deepen, and pastels neutralize. White stands strong yet again as the prevailing palette cleanser and represents minimalism in its purest form.

So without further ado, here is our Spring/Summer 2015 teaser. For the full report, please email: contact@mbf-trend-consulting.com.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Athletic Hype

Well it's a New Year and you know what that means...a rise in gym memberships as people strive to fulfill their annual resolutions to get fit. Not only will the gyms be packed these first few weeks of January, but we've been having a lot of mainstream conversations concerning athletic wear. It's now a lifestyle more than ever, especially as fashion and fitness begin to merge.

photo via MBF Trend Consulting

Over the past few seasons, things have been getting much more active, especially with the most recent Spring/Summer 2014 shows. From sneakers on the runway at DKNY to tennis influences at Lisa Perry and Tommy Hilfiger's scuba fabrications, this sporty attitude is getting us hyped up. All you have to do is look around and you'll notice the influx of technical fabrications in clothing, people interchanging their wardrobes from gym to work and back again, and the onset of athletic gear influences hitting Hollywood like in "The Hunger Games." Everyone has fitness on the brain and the industry is catching on to the craze as well.

photo via NY Daily News

It's not only on the runway but hitting mass market retailers as well like H&M with their new activewear collection. The fast fashion mega-giant has announced that it will be dressing the Swedish Olympic and Paralympic teams at the fast approaching 2014 Winter Games as well as the Summer Games in Rio de Janeiro in 2015.

photo via NY Times

In other news, the cutting-edge brand, Under Armor is planning to open its first NYC location early this year in SoHo, which will also be its largest store to date. This neighborhood is really heating up especially with the already existing Adidas, Sweaty Betty, Athletica, and Lululemon shops. In addition, rumors have been circulating about the opening of a Niketown which would really create some competition. 

video via Nike

As far as the marriage between fashion and athletics goes, it all stems from the obvious: wearable technology. Nike leads the pack with the introduction of its Fuelband SE that measures your whole body's movement to give you better insight into how active your everyday life is. This innovative limited addition gadget nearly sold out following the most recent holiday season. And with the launch of Samsung's Galaxy Gear smart watch, Google Glass, and of course, Burberry's former CEO moving to Apple, who knows what the future will bring.

photo via ft.com

So whether you're into the athletic thing or not, fashion is proving that fitness is an important aspect of our current lifestyle. Wearable technology is getting smarter as new applications allow us to track and predict behaviors via clothing, watches, and footwear. What we wear tells says a lot about who we are already, but with these new innovations, we will learn how to live both fashionably and healthy.