Richard Nicoll (London)

Drawing on a colorblocked palette of pastels and brighter tropical hues for his collection of easy sportswear, this Central St. Martins grad is quickly becoming the first of his generation of young British designers to mature into a maker of wearably chic clothing. While goth-shocker Gareth Pugh restrained his usual excess to put out an imaginatively sculptural collection for SS09, it's Nicoll who channeled the spirit of the moment into something women will want to wear, and not just for a costume party. Eschewing this year's omnipresent ombré for two-tone colorblocking, he created a selection of mix-and-match separates that include the season's popular sheer tops, long vests, boleros, and cigarette pants, not to mention a T-shirt-inspired silk shell.

Dice Kayek (Paris)

With a surfeit of confidence, designer Ece Ege celebrated her 1994 graduation from ESMOD by immediately launching her own line, Dice Kayek. Her boldness shows equally in her clothes, sharply constructed evening pieces in a largely black-and-white palate that evoke past, present and future in their vintage references and streamlined construction. Designed for a strong woman, the pieces fuse feminine silks and embroideries with severe tailoring and structure.

Edun (New York)

Now that eco-consciousness seems to have gone mainstream, with the advent of organic apparel popping up at juggernauts like H&M and Banana Republic, and social responsibility manifestos now de rigeur at former sweatshop pariahs Gap and Nike, it's time to take another look at what sustainable really means. Which is, sustainable for the planet, the people, and as a business - since a shuttered company can no longer do good. Edun, the collective project of Bono's wife Ali Hewson and denim boy-of-the-moment Rogan Gregory, combines organic materials with a mission to boost African economies, building factories and teaching farming skills in poverty-stricken areas. And as Hewson points out, "We have the social aspect of Edun down, but we are also trying to make clothes that you can wear to look good" - with simple pieces including an oversized sweater dress, jeans, and silk shirtdresses.

Photos via Edun, Ali Hewson quote in Nylon

Okley Run (London)

M.I.A. defies classification. International and interdisciplinary, the British-born singer, graphic designer, and visual artist, daughter of a Tamil freedom fighter, is known for her wildly patterned stage clothes almost as much as her pastiched, multiethnic, hip-hop-influenced music. Her colorful handmade clothes were at the vanguard of the current tribal trend espoused by influential designers from Balenciaga to Junya Watanabe to Oscar de la Renta, and a stint modeling for Marc by Marc Jacobs cemented her status as eccentric fashion icon. Just this fall, tiring of being copied by others, M.I.A. launched a small line of tribal-print clothes, called Okley Run, which she sells from her website in her typical do-it-yourself fashion. 

Via Nylon

Francesco Scognamiglio (Milan)

Mixing elegant with a dash of kink, topping slim shapes with puffy ruffles, Francesco Scognamiglio creates dramatic eveningwear a star could love - in fact, quite a few stars, including Angelina Jolie, Christina Ricci, Jennifer Aniston, and Madonna, who selected a sheer ruched blouse for her Sticky and Sweet tour. While he's been around for years, business seems to have taken off lately, with his sales hitting an anticipated $3.8 million this year, perhaps as a result of the resurgence of gothic glamor - Scognamiglio greatly admires Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci, and views his customer as a "contemporary warrior" and shirts as "protective armor". Whatever they may arm the customer against, it certainly isn't the gaze of strangers, seeing as most of his blouses (and even some trousers) fall into the range from sheer to invisible.

Via WWD; photos via Style.com

Burfitt (Paris)

Swedish-born fashion illustrator Lovisa Burfitt was in a Paris nightclub, wearing a shirt from her defunct Stockholm-based line, when a buyer demanded to know where she, too, could pick up the illustrated tee. From there, Burfitt grew into a cult-fave line of illustrated tees and formalwear, its dark mood and almost-awkward silhouettes screaming Scandinavian, yet with a showy quality that fits perfectly into the current cabaret/circus craze. For the current collection, Burfitt started with a Victorian inspiration, featuring murky colors, corsets, and dark-washed denim.

Via WWD.com

Jonathan Saunders (London)

New Yorkers got a fresh jolt of color amid all the black when the Scottish-born designer Jonathan Saunders began showing his print-happy collections in the Big Apple not year. With loads of colorblocking, bold tailoring, and of course his signature multicolored prints, Saunders also caught the attention of Target, where he collaborated on their latest Go! International collection, a younger but still edgy take on the designer's cheerful aesthetic.

photos of Target collection via Nylon 

Shipley & Halmos (New York)

After leaving their quirky, young label, Trovata, designers Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos started their eponymous line quietly last year, garnering rapt attention from buyers and fashion media without so much as a runway show. Shying away from the fanciful mismatched buttons and gaily patterned linings that characterized Trovata, Shipley & Halmos has an understated, almost quaint aesthetic, cribbing from traditional tailoring while keeping it young and fresh with charming details such as Peter Pan collars and bow ties on a girl's blouse, or a brash rock 'n' roll stripe on a slim men's suit.

Photos via Style.com

Bo van Melskens (Berlin/Copenhagen)

Storytelling designer Sarah Elbo has left behind her first womenswear line, Sarah Heartbo, to start a new label named for her imaginary best friend: the elegant, adventurous Bo van Melskens. Now based out of Berlin, the Denmark native has created a whole back story for the character that includes an online diary, video, and lush photo backdrops -- not to mention the clothes themselves, a collection of very grown-up cocktail dresses in silver and black.

Via GenArt

Hubert (Copenhagen)

The fourth collection from designer Rikke Hubert features solid colors, candy stripes, and a bold approach to silhouette that encompasses short, wide dresses and baggy harem pants - typically unflattering shapes for only the most daring of fashionistas. Citing the influences of compatriots Jens Laugesen and Stine Goya, Hubert injects a bit of drama into day clothes that will slip easily into a nightclub.

Via Refinery29